I’m not sure I would bother gluing them before installation. Once they’re in you can probably open the gap and bond them together then.
I wouldn’t use a hard isocyanate, I’d cut them so they press against each other, then spread them apart and apply some bicycle patch cement. If you end up with a gap, the PU gasketing compounds are pretty good at bonding, they stay flexible, and they’re black.
good feedback already, cutting but not gluing till final fitment is prudent
cant decide on glue.
Isocyanite is recommended for strong quick bond of “unknown” rubber type, however I would be just as happy with a black glue, so long as I know it will work.
I hope my cuts are sharp enough to be near gap free, but figured any gap could be backfilled with a black silicone or poly
you dont happen to know what sort of rubber the seals are?..ie nitrile, butyl
Avoid backfilling if at all possible if there is any kind of a lip, it’s bloody hard to do without a huge mess, and nigh to impossible to do invisibly.
Hard to tell what material your seals are, but if I’m not mistaken you’re removing a small section, so you’ve got a piece to try. If you clean really well you can put a tire patch on a CV boot and it will stay (I did one about a year ago as a temporary measure and it’s still holding).
To get a clean cut, you can make a miter guillotine with a couple of bits of wood, some Al angle, a fresh Olfa blade, and a screw through the hole in the blade. Mark your cut line with a pastel marker (comes off easily) and scriber, Put the rubber in the freezer overnight, and chop it while cold.
I’m not sure what seals are being sold now. Ten years ago, I replaced mine with a reproduction set. They had one flaw, a thin lip was missing. It was the crucial piece that made the seal. Fitment in the corners could have been better. I wrapped sections of the vent in vinyl tape. I then used a urethane window sealant to fill the gaps. It did not stick to the tape. Let it set for a week, pry it apart and do another section. This gave me a custom seal around the vent glass and its frame. They seem to be water tight and I don’t get wind noise.
So I removed the front vent glass and seal from the spare door shown pictured in the 1st post
made a partial test fitting of the loose seal & can report that the “profile” appears correct
it has a foot that fits tightly within a chrome lip.
Not easy to install, and no glue will be needed to hold it in place
It will slightly complicate my installation, in that there will be no room for error in cutting
however, if I get that right, pretty confident it will look and be as near to factory as possible
much better than the present ruined thing
my informant, owning at least 6 MKX over many years, reported similar situation to yours Micah
at 85GBP for the pair, we would like a report on whether they do fit?, perhaps they are perfect
at any rate, I am ~98% pleased with the job, the cuts are virtually invisible
I had a surprise issue with the top corner, think this can probably be rectified by cutting in a slightly different spot, will see on the PS side.
cutting must be done in situ, not freezer.
at the base, there is a hole the window post goes thru…looks like a cut in my pic, but that bit is perfect, the post must go thru that hole, and the seal is formed around it
Tony, just a tip, when you upload the pictures if you space between the uploads it give the pictures a gap between when they post, makes it a little bit easier to digest, also you can then add text to each photo if required.
Just make sure that you include the ! At the stat of the link saves you going back into the post (ask me how I know)
dont think many people know about the MK2 trick, although I do see seal advertised to fit both!
the MKX horizontal section is ~1" shorter, so its easy to tell, by offering it up.
I will post a pic later showing some important minor details about where I cut
directly below the qtr vent is a vinyl covered panel on the front top inner door shut.
when I removed it, the door is rusted underneath…I advise you to check this area.
its a common rust area, hard to detect, (and hard to fix)
I took the wood cappings off the door and can see the lock nut. As mine are 420G rubbers I’ll attempt to remove the window and fit the rubber without cutting it.
I guess I’ll need lots of vaseline and a tub of hot water to make it slide in easily
I undid the lock nut and managed not to lose it in the door, only to lose the second one as I was concentrating on not losing the washer and spring. It is a standard 8mm nut, so I will find another one.
BUT, then I hit a snag. The pin is connected to a thick washer/ring that is secured with what looks like two grub screws. They are round and have a small hole in the top, but it is so small I cannot see if it is a hex opening or not, and my smallest allan key is way too big. I tried unscrewing with some pliers, but that didn’t work.
go back to my post of ~14days ago, this issue is covered
it is a roll pin…you will need to knock it out front to back…the right size punch is needed,
de-point a nail if you dont have one
it is possible to carefully knock the pin back till the collar is free, but i strongly advise either a magnet, or assistant to hold it with curved needle nose pliers.
any item that drops into the door cannot usually be recovered.
saves you going back into the post (ask me how I know)
