[modern] Brake Caliper- Front Bracket Bolts

Disused Categories Modern
1

Dana:

I’ll work on getting the write up for the ign. amp. test procedure and send
for your review and then we can post to the list for comment and then submit
for inclusion in the book. I just replaced brake rotor’s pads, wheel
bearings front and rear (did not do rear bearings). Had a real hard time
getting the bolts loose on the front brake caliper brackets. Calipers came
off just fine, but the bracket bolts would not budge. Tried heat, air
impact, soaking with WD-40, nothing worked. After a couple of days with no
results, I removed the front shocks, and antirollbar link and front air dam
assembly in order to get a three foot breaker bar on the bolts with the car
on jack stands. If one had a lift and the cat was in the air, one could
possibly get a breaker bar from the bottom to reach the bolts. On jack
stands the bar has to extend to the front of the car. With moderate
pressure, the bolts turned with relative ease. Since they had never been
removed, I suspect just enough corrosion locked them in place. I have’nt
experienced any problems with the accumulator yet. I’ll keep you informed
on my ign. amp. test and the write up. If anyone on the list has an extra
amp. to loan me as a final test, that would help speed things up. Maybe a
used one (around $100) might be just as expeditious.

Tom
'90 XJ40, '66 E-Type_________________________________________________________________
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2

Brett:
Thanks for the proceedure. Sounds rather straight forward. Do the rear
bearings ever dry out, or just ware at about 100,000 miles? Seems strange
that the factory would not provide a grease access cap, as they did in the
past, unless the bearings are designed not be be serviced. Wonder if it
would be worth while to tap the hub and fit a gease nipple?

Tom
'90 Sovereign, '66 E-Coupe>From: Brett Gazdzinski brett.gazdzinski@wcom.com

Reply-To: brett.gazdzinski@wcom.com
To: ‘Tom Keohan’ <@tom_keohan>, XJ40@jag-lovers.org
Subject: RE: [modern] Brake Caliper- Front Bracket Bolts
Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2002 07:52:38 -0400

Tom,
Jack up the car and remove the wheel.
Lock the emergency brake, then loosen the big axle nut.
Don’t remove it all the way yet.

Remove the brake caliper and disk, cut all the wire ties
and clamps for the abs and brake pad wires.
Don’t hang the caliper by the hose, but let it sit on something
like an old paint can.

Remove the axle nut, and pull the hub off.
If it does not slide off, the axle has been locktited
to the hub and you need a 3 claw puller.

once the hub is pulled out, the hub carrier can/will tilt
forward.
The axle can come out, and the abs ring will stick in the hub
or in the axle.
You can carefully pry the seals out so you can get at the bearings.
Between the bearings, there are a small shim and a bug spacer.
make a note on how these go, they have and will only go
on in one direction/order.

If replacing the bearings, you split the emergency brake
cable at the slip joint under the car.
You can then remove the hub by removing the pivot bolt.
There are spacers on the outside, a tube that runs through
the pivot bearings, and seals.
You should remove all that and clean the bearings
(tapered roller bearings) and re grease.

With the hub off the car, you can drive out the old bearing
races with a drift…there are cut outs in the hub.
gentle tapping back and forth on each side of the race does it.

Put the new races in the freezer to help ease their installation
in the hub.

Bearing checks are something that should be done around 90,000
to 100,000 miles. There have been reports of bearing failure,
sometimes with damage to all the other parts, so its a good idea
to check them, or just replace them at 100,000 miles.
Best to have new bearings and maybe seals on hand before starting
the job, since it will be all apart, and if you find the bearings
well worn…

The bearings are set up with the spacer and shim.
You should remove the axle from the differential output shaft,
and feel the bearing play/preload after things are bolted together
tight…you don’t want a lot of slop, or a tight (binding) bearing.

I suspect, in 99% of the jobs, you can just replace the bearings
and the pre load will stay the same, but if you had one fail,
or look very bad on removal, I would check the pre load.

When assembling the axle/bearings/spacer, you
have to use care that the axle does not push the bearing
and seal out as you fit it…it can be a bit tricky.
I assemble the parts in the hub and push the axle through.

You can add locktite to the axle splines before assembling, I do.
I think there may be drive line clunks from the play
between the axle and hub if you don’t, although that
may not bother you.

Try to get good English or American bearings…

Brett
1990 XJ6

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