[modern] question about changing spark plugs

Hi all,

I have looked trough the archives and all over the web, but I am
still not convinced to wich spark plug is a good choice for my jag.

Wat I want is: better fuel economy (mpg), combustion efficiency
and lower emissions.

Up till now I found a few candidates. Bosch Platinum +4 (FR7DPX/FR8DPX),
Bosch Super (FR9DC), NGK (BKR6E), Silverstone S3F, Champion (RC9YC4) and
Splitfire (SF392D).

I read bad things about Platinum plugs. the only advantage is that
they last longer. But Platinum is a bad electrical conductor, almost
5 times worse than copper. And on some plugs the electrode is thinner
resulting in lower spark current. So the spark energy is lower than
a normal copper plug. I think that this is why some car manufacturers
are specifying larger gaps. I found something from Nissan specifying
0,039-0,044 for platinum versus 0,032-0,035 inch for copper NGK plugs.

The NGK looks to be a good choice, but I want to know more about
the Splitfire and the Silverstone. I found a positive story about
the Splitfire plug, but nothing about Silverstone. Is anyone using
their plugs?

Michel
'90 Westminster Blue Sovereign XJ40 4.0L U9 254k(km) 159k(miles)
Groningen, the Netherlands

Michel,

I am currently using the Bosch Plat+4 and like them well. (I would choose
over Splitfires anyday) There are many things that contribute to the amount
of spark the plug requires for firing and can be confirmed by an engine
analyzer that has a scope. Inside the chamber the richer the mixture, the
less amount of kilovolts it will take for the electrons to jump the gap,
hence the leaner the mixture the more KV it will require. The material used
in the plug tip is not as critical because the tank circuit, (the coil) has
more than adequate reserve to start the electrons from the tip to the ground
electrode. Once this gap has been crossed, (this is the real tall peak on
the scope and is measured in KV) the burn is measured in time. The length of
time the plug continues to spark is determined by the size of the tank
circuit, (the coil) or if the tank circuit is large enough (which is usually
the case), the electronics, either points or electronic, closes the circuit
and begins to re-charge the coil. (this is the little oscillations at the
last of each fire on the scope and is called the “ring.”) The next thing to
think about is the life of the plug and wear characteristics of the material
used. Here is where some of the platinum plugs shine their best. Quality
manufaturing processes then come to mind, and my personal opinion is that
“if it doesn’t have a well known name on it, don’t buy it.”

I have used the NGK, Bosch, and Champions. All of these manufacturers are
very good at making plugs. Champion has a plug here in the USA that is for
RV/Truck use and the center electrode is almost twice the size of the
regular and is solid copper inside. If I use the Champions (which by the way
I like very much) I use the RC12YC4 in weather other than the hottest of
summer. The 12’s burns cleaner, and stay in better shape than the 9’s in
temps below 70 degrees F.

David Box
1992 Vanden Plas (US)
90k Doeskin on Jet Black----- Original Message -----
From: Michel Stoop michel@mcs.xs4all.nl
To: Jaguar modern list modern@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Sunday, September 26, 1999 5:04 PM
Subject: [modern] question about changing spark plugs

Hi all,

I have looked trough the archives and all over the web, but I am
still not convinced to wich spark plug is a good choice for my jag.

Wat I want is: better fuel economy (mpg), combustion efficiency
and lower emissions.

Up till now I found a few candidates. Bosch Platinum +4 (FR7DPX/FR8DPX),
Bosch Super (FR9DC), NGK (BKR6E), Silverstone S3F, Champion (RC9YC4) and
Splitfire (SF392D).

I read bad things about Platinum plugs. the only advantage is that
they last longer. But Platinum is a bad electrical conductor, almost
5 times worse than copper. And on some plugs the electrode is thinner
resulting in lower spark current. So the spark energy is lower than
a normal copper plug. I think that this is why some car manufacturers
are specifying larger gaps. I found something from Nissan specifying
0,039-0,044 for platinum versus 0,032-0,035 inch for copper NGK plugs.

The NGK looks to be a good choice, but I want to know more about
the Splitfire and the Silverstone. I found a positive story about
the Splitfire plug, but nothing about Silverstone. Is anyone using
their plugs?

Michel
'90 Westminster Blue Sovereign XJ40 4.0L U9 254k(km) 159k(miles)
Groningen, the Netherlands

At the risk of starting another spark plug thread, we have the Bosch Platinum
+4s and they are fine. Also have the gratification of using extremely
expansive plugs. Actually, though, any good plug in the right heat range and
with the right gap will be fine. You won’t get any mileage or performance
benefit unless your old plugs were faulty.

Not familiar with the Silverstone brand. Nice race course, though. NGKs have
strong advocates, especially among motorcycle owners. You can make splitfires
with a chisel and Champions.

None of the stuff about resistance, etc., matters.

Dave Lokensgard
'55 XK140 OTS
'86 Volvo 740 Turbo
'90 Burgundy Sovereign (PATZCAT)
'90 Regency Red Majestic (DAVZCAT)
Poway, California

Michael wrote> I have looked trough the archives and all over the web, but I am

still not convinced to wich spark plug is a good choice for my jag.

Wat I want is: better fuel economy (mpg), combustion efficiency
and lower emissions.

Up till now I found a few candidates. Bosch Platinum +4 (FR7DPX/FR8DPX),
Bosch Super (FR9DC), NGK (BKR6E), Silverstone S3F, Champion (RC9YC4) and
Splitfire (SF392D).

I read bad things about Platinum plugs. the only advantage is that
they last longer. But Platinum is a bad electrical conductor, almost
5 times worse than copper. And on some plugs the electrode is thinner
resulting in lower spark current. So the spark energy is lower than
a normal copper plug. I think that this is why some car manufacturers
are specifying larger gaps. I found something from Nissan specifying
0,039-0,044 for platinum versus 0,032-0,035 inch for copper NGK plugs.

The NGK looks to be a good choice, but I want to know more about
the Splitfire and the Silverstone. I found a positive story about
the Splitfire plug, but nothing about Silverstone. Is anyone using
their plugs?

Michel
'90 Westminster Blue Sovereign XJ40 4.0L U9 254k(km) 159k(miles)
Groningen, the Netherlands

Hi Michel.

You wrote:
< But Platinum is a bad electrical conductor, almost
5 times worse than copper. And on some plugs the electrode is thinner
resulting in lower spark current. So the spark energy is lower than
a normal copper plug. I think that this is why some car manufacturers
are specifying larger gaps.>

The electrical conductivity of the electrode material is almost completely
irrelevant in spark plugs. Resistor type plugs are built with an internal
resistance of 10,000 ohms (typically) so the odd few milliohms difference
caused by the electrode material is just not an issue.

The thermal conductivity is a much more significant factor. The spark plug
is designed so that the thermal resistance from the electrode tip to the
threaded barrel (where the heat is transferred to the watercooled cylinder
head) is sufficient to keep the spark plug electrode tips at no greater
than 800 deg C, and no lower than about 500 deg C. The electrode tip is
right out in the mddle of the petrol explosion and heated every power
stroke.

if the thermal resistance is too high - ‘hot’ plug - the heat won’t get
away quickly enough (like a bath with a small plug hole) and it will get
too hot and either a) Melt, b) erode very quickly, c) crack the ceramic
insulator nose or d) cause pre-ignition (dieseling). All these effects are
potentially fatal for an engine. (The bath analogy is that it will
overflow if you leave the taps running).

If the thermal resitance is too low - ‘cold’ plug - the heat gets away too
fast (like a bath wit a HUGE plug hole) and it will not get hot enough and
simply get ouiled and sooted up and eventually stop working. (The bath
analogy is that it will never get deep enough for a bath even with the taps
running)

Plugs keep clean by running at temperatures high enough for deposits, oil
etc., to burn off - that’s why they are using Alumina ceramic insulators
and hard alloys.

Thermal resistance is controlled by both material and geometry. Long
copper cored electrodes have the same thermal resistance as shorter
Nichrome electrodes. Long fat electrodes have the same thermal resistance
as short thin electrodes (this is the typical Platinum form) and so on.
Copper cored electrodes have no particular advantage, the thermal
characteristics are identical to any other type. Platinum erodes much less
at high temperatures, but have the particular disadvantage that they have a
catalytic action and are more prone to pre-ignition. For this reason they
tend to be run colder and with a domed insulator construction that is less
prone to fouling.

Gap geometry is to permit a reliable spark available with modern ignition
components and systems, the actual spark plug voltage is set by the plug
gap, any excess voltage is just lost in the ignition system and plug
internal resistor (like a bath not being fillable over the level of it’s
sides). If the gap is too big, the plug simply flashes down the outside
surface of the insulator. Modern low/non lead fuels mean lower compression
ratio’s, and therefore lower cylinder pressures. This allows larger gaps
to be used without the danger of flashover. Engines will work perfectly
well with a 20 thou gap or a 10 thou gap, all it does is sets off a flame
front, once the flame has started the spark is quenched and the spark
current short circuited by the ionized gas in the high temperature flame.

Just a few pence worth of self opinionated humbug, hope it’s interesting.

Chris Dupr�s
'88 Sovereign.
Surrey, UK.

Hi All and Dave,

At the risk of starting another spark plug thread, we have the
Bosch Platinum +4s and they are fine.

Hope that the ones that complaining that the list was
quied this weekend are satisfied now :wink:
I got a few replies that the Bosch +4 are good
plugs for the jag, the normal Platinum is not.

None of the stuff about resistance, etc., matters.
I disagree on this with you.
Resistors consume energy and cause a voltage drop.
David Box has a good story about electrics. I have
a Fluke automotive scopemeter so I understand what he
is writing about. I also know some about RF design,
thats why I think that electrical conducance has an
influence on the sparking energy. Altough Chris Dupr�s
writes that this does not matter.

I think that I will get Bosch +4
The only question remains if I should get FR7DPX or FR8DPX.

Thanks to anyone for their reactions, they were very
interesting.

Michel
'90 Westminster Blue Sovereign XJ40 4.0L 254k(km) 159k(miles)
Groningen, the Netherlands

Michel,
In high voltage circuits, resistance matters little.
In low voltage circuits, resistance is very important.

The actual electrical resistance of the metal the plug is made out of is
such a small percentage of the total resistance of the circuit, as
to be totally irrelevant.

Platinum is ok for plug electrodes, as most all new cars come with
them to increase the service intervals.
Most manufactures put a dab o platinum(a chip really) on the working
end, so it wont erode away like a normal plug.

Brett
1990 XJ6