Steve,
I experienced a string of fuel starvation engine failures in my 1969 E-Type FHC shortly after purchasing it about 20 years ago. These failures happened after several minutes of driving and then after waiting by the side of the road with the car for a while the engine would start up as if nothing happened. One time when this happened I opened up the fuel cap and was surprised by a loud “whoosh” sound as air rushed into the fuel tank. Unbeknownst to me the prior owner enthusiastically polished the fuel filler cap as he prepared to sell the car and clogged up the small breather port in the fuel filler cap with metal polish. The breather port is visible near the pointy end of the pencil in this picture.
I got a small drill bit and cleaned out the metal polish in that breather hole by rolling the drill bit between my fingers in the breather port. Then I checked that the breather port was clear by blowing through it. I have not experienced another fuel starvation event in my E-Type since then. Occassionally when I fill up with gas I will inspect that breather port to make sure it is clear.
Check your fuel filler cap to make sure the breather hole is there and clear. You might have a cap without a breather port or the breather port in your fuel filler cap might be clogged. Alternatively, if your car dies on you again, remove the fuel filler cap and try to start it up immediately.
BTW, I have not bothered to polish my fuel filler cap since then.
Right, that can happen, will result in fuel starvation and opening the cap will fix it.
When it happens the engine will stutter a little before it dies.
You’re getting great advice from the true wizards on here so little I can add, but do want to relay a problem I once had which sounded a bit similar. The culprit turned out to be in the fuel filter located on the bulkhead, where a small piece of gasket had broken loose and would clog the passage. I’d drive along and suddenly the car sputter once or twice and then go dead. After sitting for a bit it could be restarted (unlike yours), but the problem would repeat. It felt like an electrical problem, but as one mechanic once told me “If you think it’s electrical, it’s probably fuel and vice versa”.
Again, thanx for all of the help. I too, thought of bringing the coil that i’m replacing…and hope i don’t need it. The first and second times, i forgot I had my driving gloves with me. However, not the third time. (slow learner…maybe my Ex was right, "hard to believe I made it this far). Tho’ “string backs” they were great to have to check connections. The “Dents” are a bit expensive but are well worth it…tried some cheapies from eBay…returned quickly. thanx again! s
ADD: oh yeah, checked the vent hole in my new gas cap…could drive a truck through that orifice. s
There might be the possibility that the pick up sock in the fuel tank gets plugged. You drive, fuel is pumped out of the tank, it also brings some debris along with it. The debris blocks the sock, no fuel, car dies. Do you hear the fuel pump clicking when you first start the car from cold? I had a similar problem with my 69S2, but that turned out to be a dead pertronix. The suggestion to buy the spark plug testers is also a good one. They work for other things that use spark plugs as well.
PS, I also had electrical/ignition issue that turned out to be a rotor with a pinhole in the bakelite. The rotor looked fine until it was put under magnification.
At this point, with ether failing me and new points, condenser, and rotor plus the rest of the facts…it’s the coil until proven otherwise. thanx again, everybody. steve
As I mentioned, just because a condenser is brand new, that doesn’t mean it’s good. Mine was brand new garbage. I put in a 15 year old one and it fixed my problem.
Erica (and others who brought this up) the idea of a bad condenser went through my mind (lt’s a sieve, really). Still thinkin’ about putting the old one back in. thanx again everyone . s
The Distributor Doctor site explains the difference between cheap and quality condensers. He sources good ones, along with quality points, which I have been using and would highly recommend. He also supplies the Red Rotor which is carried by the usuals.
I too always carry a spare set of points and condensers.
I also agree that the OP problem is tied to either the condenser or coil.
Mine definitely healed. It happened to me twice, second time resulting in a tow. That set of a months long cycle of stupid tear down and poking and parts replacement, until I finally tried sticking in a used condenser part and the problem went away. Maybe if it fails normally from age it stops working entirely, but if it’s just poorly manufactured its sensitive to heat.
Condensers degenerate with use and time.
A NOS unit 50 years old may fail immediately.
There are exceptions. Old Mallory units seem to last the best. I mean old original “Boots” Mallory pieces.
A failing or weak unit has an orange spark vs a blue one.
