Today I ordered a lighter weight flywheel from Team CJ. That seemed to be the ‘right’ compromise between the original and the even lighter race flywheels available elsewhere.
Jumping back to the beginning…
My FHC was garaged in 1980 and came out last winter to begin a ‘restoration’ I put that in quotes because the goal is to have a driving car (not for show) and originality is low on the list of considerations. Originality is a by-product that results in instances where it is the right thing to do for either aesthetics or drivability but not a goal by itself.
So, for example, the exhaust is the full stainless / long header system by ClassicFabs coated inside with the highest temp ceramic coating available. In researching this I found a solution for those who want the cast manifolds to be drivable and look good (if not original).
So, the stainless coated headers best meet my goals, a permanent glossy black manifold might meet the goals of others, neither meets the goals of someone who wants porcelain.
Similarly, the heater is being replaced by a system from Clayton Classics (which also solves the issues of fans, alternator, and other bits). I end up with better heating, air conditioning, NO change to the interior aesthetics, and a similar looking heater box.
Good Morning Mike,
I think pretty well describes how I approached my '68 and turned it into a ‘pretty darn good driver’. At some point I’d like to redo my cast iron headers but I haven’t found anything close to the gloss of the porcelain coating that they came with. I had mine ‘Jet hot’ coated several years back and I’m wondering if they have come out with a glossy black as you’ve described?
Cheers,
LLynn
Importantly the finish is both able to stand the heat and function as a heat barrier at the same time. Anyone with rusty old manifold should consider this. Add a clear coat of ceramic for something more glossy if you like but these look terrific.
Hi Mike, I’m in the last month or so of finishing a similar " driver" I went with stainless headers as well. I did consider having them internally coated, I still may if I don’t like the heat this summer. To that point, I’m very curious how well your evaporator will work in that location. I love the idea, … but seems like overcoming under bonnet heat would be a fight.
Thinking about it. I doubt I would ever need a heater core. I dont drive it on cold winter days. I wonder if there is a way to remove the old heater core from a stock box, replace with an evaporator, super insulate the box, and find a way to pull cabin air across the evaporator…hmmmmm
I have commented on this before, but here it is again. I had mine jet hot’d with their 1300 satin black. without changing anything else and using the same cheap laser temp thinger from HF I measured about a 50 degree drop across all cylinders. after running the car same amount of time in similar ambient temps etc etc. take it for what its worth. I am so impressed that a set of brand new enamel manifolds from SNG have been sitting in the box for the past 3 years.
…and if that’s the finish after three years of driving, I’m convinced. My manifolds have some cracked edges on the flanges that connect to the down pipes that need repair (using a brazing stick?) but I’m not sure the method to repair is compatible with Jet Hot. Really wanted to use the originals even though new unfinished cast are relatively cheap.
well that was when they were new, but they honestly havent changed at all in the time I have been using them, maybe 2500 miles or so. I think the ceramic will coat anything. best advice is to call them. I think they have two locations, so find the one closest to you and then set it up. They were a two week turn around including shipping.
The only thing I will caution you is they only sand blast off the remaining porcelain, they dont polish them at all. SO, maybe a nice smooth set of new ones will look a lot better. I wished I had taken time to sand/polish mine before they coated them.
That covers the big ceramic resistor used to control the A/C blower speeds. cars without power steering had it mounted on the heat shield to the rear of the brake bottles. but cars with P/S had the tank there so they put the resistor under this little metal shield.
My provider does polish whatever you send. So this is a variable between companies. Of course, this is just more motive to polish yourself and save some money.
Tom, and all… about A/C performance, I have a late sII with P/S and A/C. It is the small cabin (OTS), and I have converted the A/C to 134-a, but if put on high fan and lowest temperature it will freeze me right out of the car.
LLoyd
Oh… and the compressor is the old York.
“Prediction is very difficult, especially if it’s about the future.”
