Last fall I replaced the (probably factory) fuel injector hoses. I had a little trouble with leaks at first, but getting the clamps well tightened seemed to fix the problem. Being paranoid I do check up on them regularly and 2 were spraying gas the other day. This after a couple months and a couple hundred miles without incident.
Good. I replaced my lines last year as well (after one ruptured, no less) and used proper FI hoses as well as clamps, just as you did.
Last week I smelt fuel. Um… where does that come from this time? Okay, lets check where the dripping sound originates from and sure enough, it’s one of the new hoses, completely wet.
Now my clamps are really really tight and after finding one hose to be failing, cracks showing the woven structure, I see myself replacing them again this spring.
So you’re not alone - I think the clamping loosens over time, maybe? And I watch them every few months; put the transmission into gear, turn on the ignition and have a look while the fuel pump keeps running. Having a petrol puddle emerge from a stationary car is definitely scary enough!
It had all the specifications, DIN as well but I‘m guilty of buying cheap.
The PO had overtightened worm(?) clamps and that failure mode is not the case. When I do them again I‘ll make the water rail etc. look better, so no issue to me - still, weird that ‚proper and specified‘ FI hose shows aging that early on; could be because it’s British rubber?
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Don’t know, David - but my original hoses are still (touch wood) leak free, with no sign of aging…
Somehow, original stuff fitted anywhere seems to be better quality - but then there are always the ‘fiddle factor’ to be considered. Your pictured clamps do fulfil the elemental requirement of ‘all around’ tightening, but David also have a point about worm-screw clamps.
As an aside; while rail pressure is regulated to some 36 psi, faults may cause rail pressure above 100 psi - but it should still not leak. But honestly; clamps are there both to seal a joint, and to prevent hoses from slipping off - and excessive tightening should not really be required for either…and may be counterproductive…
Causing overfueling and my plugs are the prettiest ever. You have 30 year old hoses? Maybe they are hardened enough to never break, who knows, it might be your care…
I detest worm screw clamps because they kink the hose if you overtighten, bite in and never apply even clamping. I‘m very happy with the clamps martin has linked (and they look better).
Rail pressure should never pose a problem, and I will simply replace hoses with branded ones next time and then not again.
Agreed about the original stuff, there‘s something with factory equipment that makes it last. Maybe that’s why matching numbers are important to many?
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Having experienced a fuel leak on my carbed Simca/Chrysler way back - I sure do care, David.
Heavy fuel smell and a fuel gauge rapidly dropping, but as the car was moving perfectly in the right direction I drove blithely home without checking. Home is safety and proper tools for whatever contingency (on road is neither). Opening the hood was then veeery scary; fuel was spraying all over the ignition system and elsewhere - a blind plug on the carb had blown out…
I know I was very lucky - but no amount of inspection could have revealed the problem, there was no prior leaks. But I do indeed regularly, and carefully, inspect hoses et al for any signs of weakness/leaks. but I’m a believer in changing things on specs - not on unconfirmed suspicions.
There was something done right when Jaguar selected sub-contractors - which may no longer be available…
Your good care, making them last that well!
My first leak was the injector hose ripping apart. Smelling something I saw a big puddle of fuel rapidly emerging from below the car, and never before had I ran that quick to a fire extinguisher.
And changed the hoses: soft, torn carb hoses with worm clamps.
The second was a little fountain in the trunk after I messed up return lines to the right tank which subsequently overflowed as the return valve was stuck (yes, I had metal shavings in the fuel system; someone found it a good idea to drill in there and forgot a few important clamps in the process, too). But nothing quite as scary as fuel spraying everywhere on a running engine or dripping in a multi-car garage that’s not even yours. Oops, that happened.
Bottom line, when you smell something shut off everything asap and have a look right away. I wouldn’t want a big fire to happen after all.
Which is why my cars might see some ‘neglect’ at times, but fuel, wipers, windows, lighting, tyres and brakes are always looked after, no excuses.
Up way too early. Drat that dumb Day Light Saving time idea!!!
As I recall, the familiar generic worm drive clamps have a slight flaw. A slight end gap in the clamping surface. In olden days, racers using these for coolant hoses “double clamped”. Each with the screw 180 degrees apart.
There are other clamps that do not have the gap. Name or description not apparent to me at the moment. But, surely worthy of research.
A look at the method used on “younger” injectors might yield a safe method. A recent task on my Jeep revealed a slick quick connect feature that defied leaking,.
Hi thanks all, I haven’t had any more leaks since that last tightening. I’ve logged several hundred miles since then. Fortunate she’s been running so well; I fell off a ladder with a slight injury in my ankle landing me in a walking boot just before Easter. Of the 4 cars at my house (76 TR6, 13 MINI, 13 VW GTI, 85 XJ6) the jag is the only one with automatic transmission, so has been pressed into DD service!
And I coincidentally redid my fuel hoses today. It is not our only automatic, but my favorite. I also went for a little run on the Autobahn last week; 100mph with three people and still plenty of power, which lead me to do something about the hoses in the first place. The clamps, by the way, are still my favorite, I dislike those one-time use clamps with the ears but they look good and are not in the way.
Get well soon!
