New SIII 86 XJ6 owner and have been absorbing info about my new car for months. Finally joining and have a quick question. She ran a year ago, but not now so I have a game plan for fuel and spark debug thanks to the awesome posts and guides I have found. I am collecting my tools and techniques and my last item is the fuel injector noid kit. I see many out there on Amazon, so looking for some education on which I should buy. A particular brand / number is great info or just some spec I need to look for. Thanks!!
Dirty but very “clean”. One family ownership, bought by grandfather in Long Island, father had it in Florida and son in Raleigh. Only 80K and the son spent $25000 in paint, new dash, dash wood, new exhaust, tons of other fixes… and my bill was under $5K !
Hello Randy and welcome.
Randy you can test the pulse with just a 3 dollar test light from harbour freight. You can also rent them from auto zone. Just a deposit. If your testing for spark, get a plug tester also harbour freight 3 dollars. You can test to see if the fuel pump is working by opening the AFM metal flap push it in until you here a click. You’ll have to remove air filter and rubber donut to be able to stick your finger inside to open door. Also the Haynes manual describes the procedures. Hope this helps. Some others will also chime in . There are quite some clever brain boxes on jag-lovers. With a ton of knowlegde! Good luck mate
pushing in the flap and turning on the ignition! Or put it into Drive and crank it, it won’t crank but the pump should run. Test the internal AFM switch either way.
Then, disable the the fuel pump and depressurize the system (pull a hose off, and you probably have to install new ones some time!) Find the single white bullet connector that comes from the coil and enters the fuel injection harness right along the sensors and injectors. If you turn on the ignition, you can make and break the connection of the bullet connector. It will click every third time. That’s the injectors firing all at once - now you can disconnect all injectors at the plug and see if they click, one after another. No need for lights and noids.
Disconnect the main spark plug lead and position it 0.5-1cm from ground, preferably the engine. Crank it, it should show a good spark.
Do the same with an ignition lead. If it has spark, try to start it with starter fluid. I would actually try that first; maybe look at the condition of the spark plugs after cranking and if they are wet with fuel you already know that fuelling is not the problem.
It’ll come back. Besides the haynes manual I warmly recommend the green workshop manual if you don’t have it already.
Good luck!
I don’t need a noid. I can get that way working on my carbs. Well done Randy, that looks like a great car. Is that picture near home? I’m a big fan of weatherboard buildings. Paul
First welcome aboard. It is a helpful place and fun as well.
That sure is a nice car. What a deal…
As to diagnostics of a car that does not start is to seek to separate the issue. Hopefully only one! I like to begin with ignition. Any spark at the spark plugs? If so go to fuel, if not work on determining why.
A very recent example. My usually reliable lump failed to start. Son was over. Rigged a spare plug in lieu of the handiest cylinder. Crank. No spark. Checked at coil wire.
Noted, it loose on each end and corroded!!! Cleaned and tightened. Crank. Fired immediately…
At times, a jump wire of 12v to the + post on the coil. Spark? Issue at switch or wires from the switch.
And an induction timing light will detect spark in the HT wires or lack thereof…
Fuel:
I’ll leave that to other guys that understand this EFI far better than I
One last word Battery grounds must be clean and tight… At the wing wall and down under. Don’t ask!!!. .
Since you say your a new owner…i thought i would just ask the simple question…are you trying to start the car from a fuel tank with gas? The left and right tanks are separate…if you fill the left tank…do you have the left tank selected? If the tank selector is on say an empty right tank…it will never start.
Just Asking…not sure what your knowledge level is regarding classic Jaguars.
Hi Gary - Sorry for late reply. My poor Jag project is down on my list of “have to do” things each day. There is gas in each tank, but old, so I am draining, flushing and replacing the plug seals. The tank switch appeared to work since the gas gauge showed 1/2 tank in each which seems about right.
I am just going to methodically clean, test and update the fuel system parts and do the same for ignition and hopefully cross those off the list as culprits. I spent 8 years (ha ha - again time/$ thing) rebuilding a 1975 BMW 2002 from rusty wreck to (almost) show car, so I have great patience in this things.
