New member, XJ6 soon to be in my garage - info required


(Gavin) #21

Have been told the AC is all brand new and works well - has all receipts but yet to see any. If it is as it looks and what he claims, then it will be a done deal I think. :+1:

Went and had a look at the Series III tonight - would be an easy enough project to get on the road again, but not for the money he wanted. Body was very good, interior ok, but apart from starting it and backing it out of the garage into the sun, couldn’t do anything else because of the shagged water pump unfortunately. AC couldn’t even be tested much less the gearbox, suspension and brakes. If it was half the price it would be something to consider but I’ll move on and have a close look over the Series II on Thursday. :+1:


(Gavin) #22

Well, I went and had a look at this Jag tonight. Current owner was very accommodating and allowed me to take it on a nice long drive - nearly 45 minutes in all - through town, country roads then onto the freeway. Couldn’t fault the way it drove - smooth as silk, no noise, clunks or bangs from the suspension. Brakes work very well - much better than I though they could be on a car this old to be honest, steering precise and no noise from the power steering pump.

AC works well - actually, it was bloody freezing. Temp gauge sat just below half way the whole time, even when I gave it a bit of a thrashing on the freeway - maybe a few KMH over the speed limit at one stage… :innocent:

Body isn’t perfect, but all original and as good as an original 40 year old vehicle can be. There are a few marks in the paint and one small area - about the size of a quarter (for you US guys) :blush: of rust starting to show through in one back quarter panel behind the passanger rear wheel. Nothing else that I could find and I spend 20 minutes crawlimg under over and through it. The chrome on the bumpers isn’t perfect either - sort of has an orange peel effect in some spots - doesn’t look like rust coming through like I’ve seen on other bright work and it kinds of goes with the patina of the vehicle - which is 100% original inside and out.

Needless to say I am now the new owner of it. :grin::+1:. He’s getting the RWC for it early next week. Not sure if I’ve jumped too soon, but I’ve been scanning the for sale ads for quite a few months and this is by far the best one I’ve come across (well in my price range anyway - there’s a couple of really nice series I’s that are a lot more than what I paid for this).

He was very happy it’s going to a good home - and someone that understands older cars and how to care for them. I have a suspicion that it was his Wife that forced his hand based on a couple of things she said. Will post a few more pics if there is a way of doing that.


(Gavin) #23

Can we paste BB code straight into a post here for pics? - Yep, great. :+1:


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Probably do something about the radio aerial - what do the originals look like?


(Gavin) #24

Oh, forgot one thing - mechanically there is an issue with it - the reserve tank ‘does not work’. He couldn’t elaborate on this - his Mechanic told him this and he was never that worried about it - not a deal breaker (obviously because I bought it :grin:) by any stretch but what would be the most common thing this could be - I’m not sure how the 2 tank system works? Is there a switch to flick between them - seperate fuel pump and sender gets switched in? Assuming it could easily be an electrical fault if so.


(tony) #25

S2 XJ12 has a switch for L/R tank in the cabin, and a dual fuel pump near the spare tyre,
my S1 XJ6 had 2 seperate pumps.

First thing to do is grab the Parts and Service CD off Ebay for a few $

I know the dual pump can have the points on one side fail

top looking car, you could have viewed a lot and not got a better one


(Gavin) #26

Went back through some interior pics and yes, it does have the fuel selector switch. I’ll grab a manual for it once it’s home and do some diagnostics there, I wouldn’t think it will be too hard to fix.


(Carl Hutchins, Jr. ) #27

Super !!!

Formula:

Liked car + in budget = bought car!!!

My car is a generation or two younger Somewhat ximilar yet different.

If the engine has carb’s, it has a fuel pump in each tank. And a switch on the dash to select which. one to run from. doe electricaly.

If injected, One fuel pump in the boot astern of the spare well. serves each tank. and an electricaly operated selector valve.

Good news. Eelctrics gone astray. Not hard to fix, but might be fiddly.

Bad news. The unused tank leaks, so abandoned. Fixable, for sure, but a lot more work.

A goodly number of these cars merely get along on one tank. Although missing out on the unique task of filliing two tanks. I refer to it as the pirouette

Enjpy that great machine…

Carl


(phillip keeter) #28

You can certainly run just fine on one tank if the other tank is not usable. However, I would keep a couple gallons of fuel in the unused tank to help prevent additional rusting. Also, unless you’ve disconnected it, both tanks will receive some fuel back from the return line from the engine.
Congratulations on your fine purchase.
Phillip


(Jochen Glöckner) #29

Gavin,

looks like you were hitting gold with the second shovel you took - great car and of course the best model of all series Jags;-) Congratulations!

The “reserve tank” isn’t a reserve tank, but a second tank with a second pump and a second fuel level sender. The guage is the only part shared - wouldn’t it be cool to have two guages anyway …

With the PO telling funny things and you obviously not fully aware of the setup it might be helpful to start at square 1: Upon removing the spare wheel cover and the spare wheel you can undo the rear part of the plywood cover - it is about seven screws I think (note where they were located as they are not identical). Then have a look at what you find and compare it with the original documentation.

Earlier and later cars have two fuel pumps fitted and it looks pretty much like this http://www.jag-lovers.org/snaps/snap_view.php3?id=1426971017.

Maybe the PO’s explanation and your assumption of a switched reserve tank got you confused and everything is just as it was designed: the engine uses one tank that is selected with the button you mentioned. In normal position (green light with instruments illumination on) it selects the right tank and the fuel guage shows the fuel level of the right tank. In depressed position (red triangle light pointing left ) it is the left tank. If everything works as it is supposed to the switch operates a valve in the trunk, selects the fuel pumps and tells the fuel guage which fuel sender to use.

This complicated setup was frequently “simplified”, either because owners only wanted to fill up both tanks through one filler cap or because defunct fuel pumps, valves or senders seemed too costly to replace. When defects were limited to one tank it is quite common to find part-disabled fuel systems.

So if there is a defect in the first place, you might check whether the tanks and the fuel system in the boot are tight at all. Fill both tanks completely and you will smell whether there are any leaks. Take care though, fill up slowly and keep a keen eye one the offending tank. And to be honest, it isn’t easy to really get everything tight even with good tanks. Pinholes at the tanks or along the metal tubes are a PITA to find and fix.

If everything is good so far, chances are the fault is limited to the switch in the dashboard. These tend to lose function with lack of use. You can try to exercise the switch to restore function. You can pull it by carefully prising out the clock, reaching in and pressing the switch panel out towards the cabin. Some cleaning and lubrication often does wonders …

Let us hear how you get along with it!

Good luck

Jochen

75 XJ6L 4.2 auto (UK spec)


(Gavin) #30

Thanks heaps for the explanation, I’ll be looking into it for sure when it comes home. It is getting a Roadworthy next Wednesday (first time slot at the PO mechanics he can get) then I can run it straight to the Rego Authority and get the ownership changed over. Will be a long week waiting now…


(Gavin) #31

Another question if I may for the brains trust - are these like other early British vehicles - prone to overheating on hot days? If so, is there a known cure? Bigger rad, fan, etc?

No reason to think this one has as it was 28 degrees (82F) when I took it out and even with AC on and driving it hard the temp gauge didn’t get above half way, but would the same be true on say a 35 (95F) degree day?

I won’t be taking it out if it’s stinking hot anyway, but it’s just a thought I’ve been mulling over.

TIA.


(Jerry Mills) #32

I’ve owned 7 LBCs over the years - my first in '71. None of them had overheating issues. The MKII Tiger on occasion but even that was rare and just popped open the bonnet to the safety catch for increased air flow.
All had properly functioning cooling systems and weren’t 40 years old.
So no, I don’t believe they do if all is working properly. Replacement parts were mostly OEM back then with lower failure rates. If mods are made for more power, then yes you would want to increase cooling/air flow.
From what I’ve seen and experienced the overheating stories are from poorly maintained or modified cars. Almost akin to those really crappy 40+ year old Lucas switches that fail.
YMMV


(Frank Andersen) #33

**
‘Our’ Jaguars are not exactly overcooled, Gavin - it’s not uncommon for drivers to cast nervous glances at the temp gauge…:slight_smile:

Put this way; unless coolant system and circulation is in perfect order; xk engines tends to run a bit warm in hot weather. The first step is to verify that the thermostat if functioning properly - a crude check is to observe that during warm-up, the gauge ‘hesitates’ a bit when reaching thermostat temp…

In principle; temp should stay at thermostat temp at all times, few xk engine do. Max thermal load; in very hot weather, idling in traffic; the fan is turning too slowly for good cooling.

And pointing straight up; the gauge shows 90C - but the gauge is a crude devise; an infrared thermometer will be useful at some stage…

That said; the integrity of the cooling system is safe up to 120C before boiling - provided the prescribed system pressure is retained at 15 psi, no leaks…

Nothing alarming in your test drive experience…:slight_smile:

Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
**


(JR) #34

I have been a member for years and everyone is always so helpful. I am thinking of selling my 85 XJ6 III if interested. Contact me at russtri@aol.com and I can send you some pics and info.


(XJDanny) #35

Gavin,

Congratulations on your new car! It looks lovely. Well done! :grinning:

Danny


(Paul Breen pay palled it) #36

Hi Gavin, well done. Antenna is in the right place fo Oz - dealer fitted. Original is the period manual telescoping stainless steel one - unless powered, can get similar at Supercheap or Repco. Also, I would check the date code on the tyres - 4 digits: first two are week in the year; last two are the year. More than ten years is getting a bit long in the tooth, Paul


(W. Schuster) #37

Jochen, lass in in ruhe, er wird schon ausfinden, dass es viel spass ist an einen Jag to arbeiten.

                                                                            walter

(Gavin) #38

Thanks - will be happy with a manual antenna. Tyres are only 6 months old - current owner only just fitted them. :+1::grin:


(Gavin) #39

Thanks - had to run that through translate but I think I got it. :+1:. I am looking forward to working on it. :blush:


(Gavin) #40

As an update, I will have it home tomorrow night (Here In Australia). It has passed its Roadworthy and is now waiting on me but I can’t get a lift over to where it is to pick it up until tomorrow! Ahhhh! :grin: