I recently acquired a 70 2+2. It is in generally decent shape with a few issues that need to be addressed. As far as I can tell there is no obvious rust but who knows what is hiding in unseen areas. It has cosmoline or something similar in most crevices, maybe that is a good thing but it does tend to ooze out in places. I do know that a PO took decent mechanical care and had the car restored about 20 years ago, at least that is the story I have. It has electronic ignition and dual electric fans, otherwise I think it is standard and runs well. The car has an A/C compressor that is not connected and rear defroster. It came with a number of spare parts, mostly electronic but also the original fans. The interior is in decent shape all gauges are Smiths except the VDO clock, which keeps good time. The doors don’t close flush, not sure why, they latch, they just don’t meet the top rear fender well.
Since I live near Chicago I am not driving the car so I am working on the finish. It has a number of small chips and the entire finish is full of small scratches. I touched up the chips and I have been polishing it to remove the majority of the scratches, it is coming out pretty good so far. It is just taking a long time.
I am sure I will be asking random questions as I get to know the car a little better, thanks in advance for any help you can provide.
Here is an example of the hood, before and after. This isn’t even the worst part of the car.
What you want to achieve is the front edge being flush with the section of the body between the door and bonnet (hood in us speak).
You want the gap between the bottom of the door and the sill to be consistent front to rear.
On the latch edge of the door you have a crease just above the horizontal chrome trim piece. It should line up with the continuation of the crease in the rear quarter (that section of the body behind the door). The chrome trim should also line up with the piece that’s attached to the rear quarter.
If all that lines up and the door itself just doesn’t close flush with the quarter panel you need to adjust the door by loosening the three screws that hold the latch to the door opening and moving the latch inward. If you accidently also move the latch up or down when you do this you will affect the height of the door when it closes. Also, IIRC, the screws are posidrive, not Phillips, but you can use a Phillips head screw driver in a pinch.
Look at the door and you will see a little bullet or wedge shaped piece held in place by two black allen headed fasteners. When you close the door that piece goes in the gap between the top and bottom sections of the latch. Ideally it goes in when you close the door without touching either the top or bottom.
There are probably other ways to achieve alignment but the above works for me.
I removed the latch on the drivers side to see if that was the issue. The door wouldn’t close any better. The passenger door which is the worst of the two does sit a little higher than it should but not by much, maybe 1/4" The gap front to rear is not consistent. Here is the passenger door gap.
It’s hard to tell from the angle of the photo but it looks like the front of the door might be sticking out from the body as well. If that is the case you will need to make some adjustment where the door hinge attaches to the body.
I’ve never been able to push a door flush just by trying to hold it closed without the latch in place. Try loosening the screws and moving the latch toward the center of the car without altering it’s vertical location.
Yes, the top of the door does not fit as well as the bottom.I might need to find someone to refit the door if it is the hinge, it seems more than I would want to take on. I am sure there are shops in the Chicago area that can do this for me.
Hi John…the doors on the 2+2 are well known for not being a great fit…the doors being longer and heavier can cause them to sag on tbe hinges and cause previous owners to adjust the lock catch to compensate where it the hinge that needs sorting…open tne door and check for loose play in the hinge by lifting door up and down…another major problem is the door rubbers…many are too hard and do not compress enough when the door is closed…also the door cards can prevent tbe door closing if retrimed and too thick…the chrome frame around the windiw can also be adjusted in and out…so lots to check…hinges are not to difucult to adjust…remove the door cards and close the door…from inside wedge thick card inbetween bottom of door and sill at the front and rear…this takes the door weight then slacken the 4 hinge bolts…door can then move…best with 2 …hope this helps… Steve
IIRC, to move the top, or bottom of the door in or out you don’t need to remove any interior trim. Just open the door, support the door handle end (I use a small hydraulic jack on a support) carefully loosen about 1 turn the top two and the outer bottom bolt holding the hinge to the car body. The bolt you left tight acts as a pivot and keeps you from totally losing what alignment you have. Jack the other end of the door up slightly and you will see the top of hinge move toward the center of the car… Don’t move it much, a little adjustment goes a long way; think in terms of about 1/'16 of an inch at a time. Tighten all the bolts, remove your jack and very carefully close the door observing the gap between the scuttle and door. When properly adjusted there is not much space between the two as the door closes and if you have it too close you will damage the paint at the gap.
The above is how I’ve always adjusted mine, both on a 2+2 and a FHC. If you go slow, double check every step you take and make minute adjustments it can be done by one person. And you’ll have a very satisfied smile on your face when you get the door right and it closes nicely.
One final note. If you decide to adjust the hinges you can reduce the risk to the paint by wrapping some blue painter’s masking tape around the edge of the door and scuttle. Also, I put a small length of painter’s tape about a 1/16" from and parallel to the edge of the hinge as a reference point so I can gauge how far it’s moved. I do the same when moving the latches.