Thanks all for the great info in this thread.
Thx for all the follow up pics. We are all on the same page for front and rear gearbox bearings. THANKS BILL!
Dan, I do not recognize the Koyo J1612 bearing. Looks different than mine. It is part number C25424 . See pic.
Also, I tried Bill’s method of removing the main shaft bearing using epoxy and a bolt. Looked like it was going to work but then with much torque, the epoxy started to pull apart after curing for 24 hrs. Trying again with JB Weld this time. See pic.
Sorry, no pics. I cannot figure out how to select a pic and copy to clipboard on my android phone. Too late and giving up.
Hi Kevin,
There are to styles of drawn cup, needle roller bearing. One is referred to as a caged type and the other a full compliment bearing. SNGB offer both types, with the full compliment bearing being described as an uprated bearing and recommended; a misnomer in my opinion.
The full complement bearing has a slightly greater load bearing capacity, but in the Jaguar gearbox application its somewhat irrelevant. Full complement bearings suffer from friction more than the caged variety due to the rollers rubbing together. With the caged type, the rollers are separated and better alignment maintained by the cage. Lubrication is also superior with the caged type.
At work we use and would recommend the use of the caged, drawn cup needle roller bearing for this application.
Brent
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Okay, JB Weld for steel worked! The roller bearing came out using Bill’s bolt and epoxy method. Gearbox is ready for cleaning and full rebuild. I have all the parts needed to complete the job. Thanks to all for the huge help from this web site! 
Good Luck.
I just got mine cleaned and painted. I used epoxy primer, base coat and clear coat.
I am in the process of reassembly.
Hi Dan,
Because the finish on the gearbox was never a high gloss, we use Valspar Direct To Metal semi gloss. We use this on all black components that weren’t originally high gloss; its a very close match to the original finish.
Brent
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Thanks for the heads up.
I did not do a sheen match on the original paint but it was for sure not as glossy as What I painted, but it did seem to be a bit more glossy than what you show.
I am a fan of the Base coat / clear coat systems. I will try again on the sheen with a flattening agent added to the clear.
Would the engine and associated brackets also have been close to the same sheen?
Hi Dan,
Yes. For engine blocks we use KBS (Australian Product) Motor Coater in what they call Velvet Black (Satin Black).
Brent
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