A good call I think to go for new ones, the car body looks so rust free in the pictures it is a surprise to see the tanks so badly gone. One less thing to worry about when they are fitted
thanks for the advice
John6: pumping continuously seems a good thing but even if you use a “disposable” chinese pump at 19€ I wonder how long it will endure the rubbish ? or you need to change the filter every hour ?
I ordered a new one (left first, no savings on postage for 2) for 398€ at SNG
[SNG Barratt UK | Keeping your Jaguar on the road]
manufacturer name is not mentioned but it’s the only one we can get over here from SNG
for the right one, I will tackle it once I have figured out how to unscrew the RH main nut holding the bumper: there is a Nylock nut holding to a bolt (which is supposed to be prisoner ?) but despite heating with magnetic loop and WD40, both turn together …
Bertiebloke: yes the car is rust free albeit a little surface rust in places
I suspect it is more the internal varnish which gor derelict than proper rust (debris are non magnetic) ; so maybe fuel degradation or attempt to run it on acetone ? 
a view of the receptacle of the tanks, with very light surface rust already treated
this area is prone to corrosion
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While you have that tank out, spray several coats of cavity wax up there!! No better time.
Jeff H.
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done ; with a product called Frameto which has the good taste to make a dark blue finish, and is not greasy (which ends up dripping out when the wheather is hot)
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I’m stuck ; I try to remove the last bolt retaining the rear bumper (in order to remove the RH fuel tank)
however when I try to unscrew the (Nyloc) nut, the bolt turns at the same time
I tried WD40, I tried magnetic heating : no avail
is there a way to access the bolt from inside ? there is a see-through hole underneath maybe it could help ? (tried but no avail either)
or is there a way to remove tne “banana” part of the bumper only without having to unscrew this nut ?
Rolando - I had a similar problem on a bolt on my car - if you can get a flat blade screwdriver in to the hole, then use it to put pressure on the head of the bolt, you may be able to finally get the nut to turn loose - Tex.
Thanks Tex
I tried during 30 mins, also bending the bumper from the other unbolted side to pry on the bolt; but no success
maybe I’ll have to drill the hole large to try and insert a pair of plyers ?
The tank might not end up so bad, let it dry and then scrape out all the dust, that is less rust and much more gunk and tar and so on.
I made a rod with a brush at the tip and made vacuum attachments too.
Thanks David; I’ve already ordered a new tank
I’ll try oh the RH one if it is not as bad, whenever I’ll be able to unscrew that b…y nut
It’s a captive nut, Rolando; either (imperfectly) welded - or by folded metal like the striker pins on the bonnet. All of which is not of much help…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ
Rolando - (I am not very familiar with your car so this suggestion may not help) - looking closely at the picture showing the hole, circled in red, I am wondering if that is a rubber mount, between the car frame and the plate mounting bracket - if it is a rubber mount, then might you consider cutting away the rubber mount - this would give you access to use a vise-grip type plies to hold the bolt shank so that you can remove the nut - of course all this depends on the availability of a replacement rubber mount - again, just a suggestion - Tex.
Don’t mess with the body Rolando, just cut the bolt and be done with it.
1 Like
He still needs ‘something’ behind there to screw in the replacement bolt, Aristides - but removing the bumper part may clarify matters?
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
received the new LH tank, made in Canda (SNG Barratt)
not the same as mine, this one has the gauge hole on the front instead of the rear… and the fuel in/out tubes are not in the same position;
I asked a exchange but I’m not sure they have “my” version; hope so because otherwise it will mean significant adaptation
Hole in front was the original approach, S1 and maybe S2 also. The S3 still has the access hole which is the plate for the fuel return line in the wheel well. I‘d hope and wait for the correct tank. Or just clean the old one.
Have you tried a flat screwdriver in through the hole shown to pry again and wedge against the bolt head or whatever is on the inside and hopefully hold it from turning enough to be able to turn the nut?
If that doesn’t work, try using a roto tool (Dremel, etc, if something larger doesn’t fit there) and make a diagonal cut in the nut, to the bolt or even into the bolt (as it can be difficult to stop at the bolt).
Then use a flat blade screw driver to slightly pry the nut apart, loosening the nut on the bolt. The worst cases I’ve had required two cuts through the nut on different sides, allowing a section of the nut to be worked loose.
David: I’ll try and have the right one, otherwise adaot this one, I don’t feel confident with sufficiently cleaning the old one
Jerry: yes I tried to pry in the hole with a screwdriver but it was not sufficient to restrain the bolt from turning; I keep your idea of cutting the nut, but before I will enlarge the hole to try to insert a pair of pliers
in the meantime I have painted the floors with a “burgundy” paint as close as possible from the original , and glued the noise deadening straps
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Removing the nut is the ‘easy’ bit, Rolando - you need proper access to lock in a new nut…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)