I meant to post an update on the Injured Kitty Rescue but life’s events have kept me
away from the car. There are a few names that deserve a big thank you (Larry in BC for one) and It will be coming fairly soon. My question is this. I’ve removed the engine oil filter housing and am completely by-passing
the oil cooler portion of the housing since it’s the cheapest route and makes more sense then other alternatives (4 shorter bolts and a gasket only). What a bloody messy job!! Anyway I noticed on the housing no gasket other than some black silicone gasket residue. Has anyone done this and should I use a good quality gasket material
instead of just the silicone and also and the VERY important question of what are the torque specs for those 4 bolts. I’ve searched a bit and can’t find a definitive answer. If anyone has done this successfully with no leaks I’d appreciate your feed back. The car is 1987 3.6 liter.
The original bolts holding the oil filter head/oil cooler adapter are torqued to 23 to 27 Nm or 17 to 20 lbf/ft.
Since the original gasket is NLA, I would use sealant.
You wrote in the past about removing the whole unit instead of using the bypass kit which sounds great but the JDHT page you refer to shows the relief bypass valve lives in that unit. what happens to this valve in this removal. ThanksOk Bryan on the torque specs. It was nice to find the bolts easy to remove so I knew they were somewhere near that vicinity. Seems like it may be a tad difficult to even get a torque wrench in there. Hopefully I can find shorter bolts tomorrow with the same threads at the autoparts store. Any time I mention 1987 Jag XJ40 at parts stores etc. you should see the blank stares I get. Not many here on the East Coast of Canada. The reason I mentioned about using a gasket is I’ve seen on the web
people mentioning about “make a gasket out of good quality gasket material” so that’s why I asked the question since I was very surprised to find no gasket after removal. I’ll admit I was very hesitant about doing this as I haven’t done anything quite like it and it’s been a while since I’ve turned spanners in hard reach areas. I’m sure it will all work out leak free. Thanks for your help Bryan and I’ll let you know how it goes when I have a chance to start it. Still a few things to do before that.
Cheers…
Peter
since you have yours apart can you shed some light on my earlier post about the bypass relief valve. ThanksJust take one of the bolts to a hardware store and match the thread, it probably 8mm from memory, I made a gasket when I removed my engine cooler, unfortunately I didn’t tighten sufficiently in the first instance. This caused the oil to reach the gasket when my brother borrowed the car. Can’t remember now whether I remade the gasket or just replaced it and re tightened the bolts. After that it didn’t leak again. Bonus point the oil stas cleaner for longer, not having been contaminated with the residual oil in the cooler.
No expert here, but I’d say that the relief bypass valve in that unit between the engine block and the filter housing is for routing oil through the hoses to the cooler which will no longer be there. Again I would say that once you mount the filter housing alone to the block all the oil simply flows through the filter as if the oil cooler, and what it required never existed. I am certainly no mechanic and would like to hear from anyone who is knowledgeable with this as I’ve found places on the web where what I am doing is the preferred practice recommended and that these by-passes aren’t even on newer models and were just “over engineering” on Jaguars part. Thanks for your thoughts and we may hear what others think.
Thanks for the prompt reply.
I’ll be heading to a store that specializes in fasteners, bolts etc. of all kinds in the morning. He told me on the phone that nothing they sell is “automotive” but industrial. They’re 10mm bolts and robust so my worries this summer about attempting this and possibly experiencing the nightmare of a sheared bolt were put to rest when I turned the first one out and seen how heavy the bolt was. Yeah as far as the gasket goes I’m on the fence tonight about it. Bryan had a good point in the earlier post, especially since I found no gasket there and only minimal black silicon and I do mean minimal. The tiniest bead on the inside lips of the castings is all that was there. Wondering if a homemade gasket with a bit of sealant might increase my chances of a leak free outcome? I would only use gasket material that has very little compression characteristics so it does settle over time. Thanks for your input Robin and I’ll be glad when this is done as it’s a bit stressing but fun at the same time.
Hey no worries about the quick reply. I know how to appreciate you all taking the time to help me with this stuff. By the way, what’s your thoughts on my reply and does it seem to make sense just to me or does it sound like a valid point on the relief bypass.
I am going solely on the depiction of the valve in the parts diagram and to me it looks like it is worth talking about. Maybe if I had mine in pieces I could see what's going on
More than likely Bryan will set us straight..My understanding is that the ‘bypass relief valve’ was only required with the original oil cooler installation in case the oil cooler became blocked so that the engine did not suffer loss of oil circulation.
I understand what you mean. At this point I’ll have to go on my bit of research that Jaguar is ok with the deletion of the by pass housing. Looking at it suggests that the valve is entirely for by pass to cooler. Once removed all the oil then will flow to the filter. Robin and others have done the mod so
I’m committed to it today and I won’t over think it. It is good to be cautious for sure but I think there’s enough evidence on this one, for me anyway.
Cheers
Thanks again Bryan. That should be it in a nut shell.
Thanks Bryan
Where is the bypass valve that dumps back to the sump if the filter blocks up. I know in the older XK engine this was point of many discussions. What are the chances of the
cooler blocking up.?This really does not make sense to me. In my experience elsewhere a bypass or relief valve had nothing to do with the coolers , but very much to do with blocked filters
Well you have a point there. I haven’t installed it yet. I guess we’d have to ask the question about
the newer models without the oil cooler and does the housing for the oil filter have some sort of bypass valve in case of a filter blockage. I have no idea if the newer models have a different style of filter housing, or would it be identical to what’s on the earlier models filter housing. Does anyone know for sure. I guess I should wait then. It’s been one of those days already! Thanks for thinking about it though.
Well … I quote from the factory service manual -
“A balance valve is fitted which bypasses the oil cooler circuit when a pressure differential of 10 to 15 lbs/sq inch occurs”
and …
“NOTE - Oil coolers are specified on all models to date, but if at any time a cooler is not required, then the oil filter housing can be bolted directly to the cylinder block through omitting the oil cooler adaptor”
Who am I to argue with Jaguar?
Just to add this. It would be easy to say this is “over thinking” but it should be addressed.
I’m not in the mood to work on the car today anyway so I’ll take a few pictures of the parts in question and let the experts here give us a final say of what they think. Thanks again for every ones input.
Bryan that’s what I wanted to hear. I don’t have the “factory” service manual so if that’s in there we aren’t going beat this anymore. Once more thanks.
A cynic would ask why did the Jag engineers fashion a pretty simple bypass kit of u shaped pipe and o rings if all they had to do is remove the oil cooler plate?
Appreciate the work you've done Bryan, but it still doesn't make sense to me. Where is the valve which bypasses in the event of a filter blockage?