Does anybody know if the camshaft oil feed pipe EAC2430 can be removed without taking off the intake manifold, maybe by removing the starter. I have a bad leak at the oil filter head where the pipe is attached to the C37218 fitting. Upon inspection I see a split in the ring (copper?) that is swaged onto the end of the pipe. I think I need to replace the pipe entirely, or figure out some way of repairing some other way.
David Culgan
1986 XJ6 series 3
Sorry about the image quality but you can try to get in from below. Maybe you can pull it out downwards and if not, just cut it and get a replacement (there are flexible feed lines, but careful: the E type has a different source that starts on the other side of the block where you can’t mount it - no drilling).
If you need to do the starter I assume that it could be done (which doesn’t have to be true) but will be such a pain that it might be easier to get a new intake gasket and invest a few (!) hours of work into that.
David
My own engine has the same filter as yours. The pictures show an earlier style. You have to pull the intake manifold off, but then it is easy.
Good luck
David
Thanks for the replies. I was really hoping to avoid removing the intake manifold. I’ve tried to get it off before, after removing all the components in the way and all the fasteners I just could not get it to budge, even hitting it with a hammer and block of wood. I didn’t try the bottle jack persuasion method since I was finally able to get the oil filter head off ( with stuck on oil filter - a long story detailed in previous posts). The cam feed line suffered in the process though and now must be replaced.
I’m skeptical that removing the starter, and the soft and hard coolant pipes to the heater will give me the room I’ll need to install the new oil line ( I have a good used one coming from Everyday XJ), But having just had the fuel rail and water rail off earlier I hate going through all that again but if that’s what it takes so be it.
I’m also wondering if it might be feasible to cut the line somewhere strategic to aid installation and join it with a union of some sort, either a flared fitting ( I recently bought a flaring tool for brake lines on another car) or other style compression fitting suitable for the high oil pressure. Also wondering if I could cut and join with fuel injector line and good clamps, maybe after grooving the line so the tubing wouldn’t blow off due to pressure. I’d still have to be able to reach this junction. For sure it would be a bodge. You can see I’m very shy about going for the intake manifold again.
I wouldn’t do that David. I left the fuel rail in place, clamped the hoses, drained some coolant, removed the water rail and distributor and all the bolts and then used the small bottle jack. The worst part is the hidden nuts. The rest is really easy. You can then lift out the oil feed line without touching the starter or crawling under.
Don’t worry. I was worried too 
Where do you place the bottle Jack? I assume it sits on the floor (or blocks if car is raised) but where on the manifold should I apply the pressure? Does the throttle body need to come off? The electrical part ( throttle position sensor?) seems pretty close to the inner fender. Thanks.
I put it on the front suspension and applied pressure to the front of the manifold.
Well to answer the question I first posed in this thread, yes the cam oil feed pipe can be removed, quite easily, from below once the starter is removed.
I also had to undo and displace the hard coolant pipe leading to the heater. Along the way I learned that I can efficiently remove enough coolant by placing a large plastic bottle under the car and connecting a drain line where the small tube leading to the throttle body attaches to the water pump. The starter wasn’t too big of a deal. I ended up leaving the wiring, the thick and thin wires, attached to the starter and pulled them down below first. I also slipped a loop of clothes line around the starter that I fed down through one of the openings in the intake manifold and secured above. This helped take the weight of the starter when I had removed the two mounting bolts, until I was ready to lower it to the floor. The new cam feed pie is installed and connected. Tomorrow I’ll clean up the starter and reinstall it. Oh boy!
Good to know and good idea about the drain! Hope you won’t have any leaks for a long time.
David
David,
Very clever. Congratulations and thank you for posting your solution.
I have done some intake manifold removals and replacements recently and it does sound like this method of removing and replacing the oil feed pipe was an easier way to go.
Paul
Paul
It’s done and ready for another 30!!
Kudos ! And good reporting. Others can benefit.
I would have been tempted to use a flex line. but not a mid steel line coupling. Another possible leak point.
I would have gone with braided line. Being careful that it was Ok for hot oil. Adapters at each end. Jag (metric or SAE) to ANC.
Tidy and easier to get started and little or no risk of cross threading a fitting. don’t ask!!
Some where back, a lister used the rope idea to support the heavy starter. I had the “opportunity”: to swap out a few starters in my LT1. Again, don’t ask.
But, the ACDElCO was really big and clumsy. The newer version much lighter. Greatly appreciated…
Carl
