Lots of suggestions…thx. I have an air impact gun, I’m a bit afraid to use it on this part because I don’t want to damage the casting. And I need a better bit if I use that so I’m glad you mentioned “drag link sockets.” I didn’t know what they were called and I only have one that came with my Lisle Impact Driver (a tool I bought new in college…60 years ago!) and a Snap-on drag link that fits better but it’s blade doesn’t fit this screw-plug well. And that is buggering the slot and I do not want to bugger the slot! So, my Christmas present to me will be a set of drag link sockets! Thx for that!! Great ideas on making a “U” fixture.
I like the idea of the leaving the ports connected rather than blocking them off. I may have to do so if I cannot get the screw-plug off. I’d take you up on the part you have Phil but it doesn’t work for the filter/cooler adapter I have right? Anyway, looks like Martin will grab it.
FWIW, a well known and respected Jag-lovers expert just advised me to leave the internal regulator in place. He said that the higher pressures realized (65-75psi) are not too high and, in fact, that those pressures were “normal” in the XJ models.
I went as far as acquiring a drag link socket from McMaster Carr, planned to mill the blade down 0.050" to make a snug fit in the groove, removed the four set screws holding the filter housing to the block and removing the bypass hose all so I could work on the bench. It was still stuck to the block when I took a break, checked my email and I found his kind reply to my question about removing the internal regulator. It went all back together without a fuss.
Hi Craig. I would have to ask which internal regulator was being referred to. There is the Oil Cooler relief valve to the left of my pic’s #1. And of course the pressure relief valve (bottom right of photo) that returns oil to the sump in the case of a blockage that exceeds 60 psi (I think). Assuming he’s referring to the Oil Cooler relief valve, I’d have some concern leaving it in place.
The way I understand this adapter works is that oil under pressure from the pump enters port 2, travels through either the cooler or the Oil Cooler Relief (bypass) valve into port 3 then through the filter into port 1 and then back into the block.
Blocking the Oil Cooler ports off means all the oil flows from 2 to 3 via the Oil Cooler Relief valve and that is quite a restriction. The inlet hole of that Oil Cooler Relief valve is just 1/2" dia. And there is a ball held against that inlet by the visible spring. Granted the spring is quite soft, but the ball is a flow restrictor. The 3/8" outlet hole (at the spring) is duplicated on the other side, so the outlets are not the restriction as much as the ball in the tube. IMO that restriction is undesirable and will reduce oil flow well below what is needed. Compare Mike S. photo with the adapter on the left: all the oil that comes from the oil pump goes into cavity 2 and into the oil filter and then out through cavity 3 back into the engine oil galleries.
I believe the Oil Cooler Relief Valve is a means to “regulate” the oil flow to the oil cooler based on the temperature based viscosity of the oil. When cold, the Oil Cooler Relief (Bypass) Valve opens and lets oil bypass the oil cooler and go directly through the filter, although some undoubtedly still routes through the oil cooler. As the oil warms up, viscosity drops and the spring closes the valve a bit and more oil flows through the cooler. It is a sort of temperature control to regulate the amount of oil flowing through the cooler. (I know most folks say the XK engine did not have a temperature sensor/valve to reduce oil flow to the cooler…but this is exactly that. IMO.)
The bottom line for me is if the oil cooler ports are blocked, that Oil Cooler Relief (Bypass) valve should be removed to allow sufficient volume of oil. Just my opinion at this point in time.
That seems like a very small amount compared to what I remember for my Series 2. Found this old article which matches my recollection of the capacity. http://www.jag-lovers.org/newbies/series_III/engine_oil_and_filter_routine_service.html
What do you mean?
Oil capacity with filter change is over 8, without about 6 (don’t quote me); the sump is the same as in the before-cooler-XJs that work well enough? And I assume that if everything is drained at least 10 will have to be put in with the oil cooler… probably more.
Dunno: I know that a 5-quart jug filled it full. If I end up using the cooler, that wont count for much more than a few pints.
Yes, it’s the proper dipstick.
Scott,
Thank you for the explanation because it was very helpful for me to visualize the flow. I don’t have the filter housing in hand to look at so I have been struggling a little with understanding it. This subject seems to get more complicated the more one looks at it.
Consider this picture:
The housing on the left is manufactured with closed ports! This is the housing I have installed. To be honest, I do not recall from 6 years ago if it had the internal regulator or not. If it does, why would Jaguar manufacturer it that way?
As I mentioned, my electric pressure gauge indicates 65 hot - 80 cold but I haven’t confirmed that with a mechanical gauge. I have my pressure sensor mounted where the brass fitting is in the picture. I think I understand that to be the port for the cam oil feed line?
Based on this picture:
my pressure sending unit is sensing the pressure as it returns to the engine?
Questions:
- Once you remove the outer, large screw, will you be looking at a slotted cap that threads into the port between chamber 2 and 3? How then is the oil ported to the ball on the spring?
- Based on your picture, once oil enters chamber 2, is the only way out through the cooler line or through either the internal or bypass regulators? IOW, are there passages from 2 to the filter not visible in these pictures? If not, then in my setup the only way out is through the internal regulator or the bypass regulator.
- But how could the pressure in chamber 1 be greater than the bypass regulator, presumably set at 60psi or so?
I shoulda had that 2nd cup of coffee!
I thought some more about the copper pipe u-fixture. I think one could use only a pair of “ells” and a piece of 3/4 inch nominal pipe to make the copper loop–then use the existing clamp to hold it down. An improvement would be to increase the “purchase” against the gasket or o-ring. Instead of the edge of the elbow contacting the gassket, use a street elbow with a cap. Bore a hole in the cap so that there is about 1/8 around the edge to engage the gasket.
Thought I would see what it took to remove the plug from the bottom. Answer: about 10 or 12 licks with a blunt nose chisel and a ball pein hammer, alternating sides of the slot. The plug is threaded 7/8“-14 tpi, which is a legit SAE thread size. Ground seal surface, no gasket. If I was going to make a habit of taking this thing out, I think I would shorten up a socket head cap screw (3/4" internal hex) and fit a copper or fiber washer to it.
So you are saying that part won’t work on a 4.2l XJ6 filter head?
Odd, that they’d change such a small amount.
Just a guess, but I would bet one was designed in SAE fractional and the later one was designed metric. All the threads on the pre 87 XJ6 filter heads are SAE.
One other candidate for these plugs, the ridiculously rare 5/8"-14 tpi BSPP pipe thread. Major diameter is 0.902", which I think is too big. I have never, not even once, seen 5/8" pipe size on any piece of equipment.
That’s my experience. The cast part fits the filter head assembly on a 3.6 xj6 which is obviously the AJ6 derivative
Will the 3.6 filter housing bolt up to an XK block?
Philip thanks for the detailed pictures - the bypass part will not fit for me. Thanks for the offer!
I don’t think so Paul, and I don’t have one to check.
With best regards
Philip Dobson
OK - I dug up one of the o-ring hose adapters for this filter block. If the objective is to plug the oil cooler ports, I MIGHT have a cheap, bomb-proof solution. I’ll have to verify this tomorrow morning, but I think it should be possible to plug the hose fitting from the bottom of the hose adapter. The passage is 0.655" i.d. The o.d. of 3/8" pipe is 0.675". I believe you should be able to tap that fitting from the bottom and have enough thread engagement to seal the port without resorting to wrot copper plumbing parts.
