I have had an oil leak since engine rebuild years ago. Always thought it was rear main rope seal. Recently had engine out to rebuild trans and decided to look at the cam oil-feed banjos. They were scarred from over-tightening over the years., Took some sandpaper and went to work on them on a granite countertop. It took some doing to keep the areas square. Slowly took off the scars and got clean, flat surfaces. Result was no engine oil on bottom of engine/torsion -bar plate area for first time!
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Good work (assuming the kitchen) was the wife home when you did this ?
As others have said don’t reuse the copper washers they’ll leak
Verified 
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Not trying to be contrary - but I have heard that by heating it to cherry-red and dunking in water (or was it let it cool to room temp?), then the copper washer could be reused. I’m not a cheapskate, just someone who has found it difficult to find the proper dimensioned washer (he said - expressing concern for blocking the oil port opening).
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I think that letting it cool down naturally (which is very quick) is enough to recover a soft metal.
You can also slightly hammer it when hot to flatten it if necessary.
Then indeed can be reused to seal if the shape is still good enough
NOT the very thin crush washers on the oil line: one, and done!
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Fine for most copper washers but not for the ultra thin washers used on the cam oil feed lines which have a raised crush ring which, once crushed, is forever gone…
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My understanding is both methods will soften copper, but the plunge in cold water makes it softer than letting it air cool.
Yes I know all about annealing copper washers , you can buy the proper ones from terry’s… enjoy your oil leak
Cheers
I have “reconditioned” washers this way woth success - term is “annealing”.
Hello Jagjim! - any chance you could help with direction to find the oil pipe banjo washers on the Terry’s Jag parts site - took a look, since you mentioned this, and hit a dead end - saw a picture, in the engine gasket set section, showing the half moon seal, along with possibly the banjo washer, but no listing for the part number - I am experiencing the same oil leak as Douglass_Harroun mentioned, after I changed the oil pressure sender on my 1991 XJS V12 - I know this is the E-Type forum, but I keep reading through the different sections to help gain the knowledge for taking care of my engine and car - thanks, Tex.
I tried that trick with the very thin ones on the oil feed lines: it never worked.
Hello again Jagjim1 - I did go to my Moss Motors catalogue, cylinder head, V12, and found the part number of 37-2000 listed as “upgraded” washer for the banjo bolt on the rear oil line, and the part number C2296/3 for a “standard” washer - so I guess I can just order from them - I have never attempted to anneal a washer so I think best to just purchase - thanks, Tex.
Thank you for that part number - Tex.
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Exactly they are to thin if they are the proper ones which go for 25 cents also they are a pain to change Ymmv
Ask me how I know
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Don’t be afraid to try, heat them red dump in water it’s fine with thicker washers
A propane torch will do it but it’s slow acetylene is better
Cheers
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I did the ones under the cam cover acorn nuts.
Heere’s a question. You buy new copper washers and I assume they are annealed, soft, when new. You install them. Later you remove them for whatever reason. Why would you need to anneal, soften, them again. Have they work hardened just sitting there when they were installed? Was there enough plastic deformation of the washer when installed to work harden it?
No quenching will keep the copper soft. Slow cooling may harden them again. I have done this method for years.
When they get squashed they go hard
Copper washers are used under aircraft spark plugs .many people anneal them to reuse but the manufacturer says to use new ones as they get thinner and thinner
Cheers