My 4.2 69 XKE seems to have low oil pressure–below 20 PSI hot.
A supplemental tester is showing erratically high readings.
Therefore, I’d like to try an aftermarket sending unit but would rather not spend $100 to do so.
Any suggestions on my options?
Tom Shields
This was such a troublesome issue (sending units) for so many here that I finally changed to using a mechanical gauge in the dash. I have had mechanical oil pressure gauges in my TRs and always found them to be quite accurate and durable.
You could plumb a quality, glycol-dampened industrial gauge onto the filter housing or pressure line…not useful as you drive, of course, but fine for garage use. You can even tap into the main oil gallery in several places with a conversion fitting…not the easiest solution, though. A good gauge is not expensive in the big scheme of things.
The senders have been a frequent complaint. I installed a Sunpro mechanical gauge in place of the stock gauge. I think one of the British clubs had authorized a repro Lucas mechanical gauge.
I am awaiting a different shop tester but hoped that an inexpensive electric aftermarket sender was available in the meantime.
Tom my 69 runs at about 48 psi fully warm, at normal operating rpm. The gauge is a newer Smith’s mechanical gauge with the original face adapted by Gauge Guys.
I personally wouldn’t even bother with the elec sender/gauge. It’s all madness!
Yea, after I satisfy myself that the oil pressure is normal with a mechanical shop gage l, I may just ignore what the OEM gage and forget it.
Thomas,
I think that is exactly what many of us do. I have a mechanical gauge plumbed in under the bonnet which I use to check the actual pressure if I see a change in the behavior of the original dash gauge. After a while I have become familiar with how my electrical gauge reading varies with temperature and battery voltage (e.g. the oil pressure drops about 10psi when the cooling fans come on!), so I only need to check the mechanical gauge if I see something unusual on the electrical gauge. I ignore the quantitative value of the electrical gauge, and just look for consistent behavior.
2 Likes
My 69 had the same issue so I added a cheapo $20 mechanical gauge and mounted it to the unused washer bottle bracket on the bulkhead. There is an old thread on here somewhere that discusses adding one in parallel. I did find a print out of the picture including the parts required and numbers. I purchased the all from McMaster-Carr.
Edit - found the thread
Jay
1 Like
David
I agree with your approach
| mightyatom
May 1 |
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My 69 had the same issue so I added a cheapo $20 mechanical gauge and mounted it to the unused washer bottle bracket on the bulkhead. There is an old thread on here somewhere that discusses adding one in parallel. I did find a print out of the picture including the parts required and numbers. I purchased the all from McMaster-Carr.
Edit - found the thread
[E-Type] Mechanical Oil Pressure Gauge Installation E-Type
Next oil change looking to install a Mechanical Oil Pressure Gauge as highly recommended by listers. Saw the archives and ordered the pluming parts (thanks Chuck).I will order a Smith gauge and I want to mount it by my ignition switch. Does anyone know the length of tube I need and where to get it? I don’t think 49 inched would do it. Any other ideas would be greatly appreciated.– Benny 1968 4.2 S11/2 OTS Old Bridge NJ, United States –Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lover…
Jay
Here is a single T piece for adding on a mechanical gauge. I also got copper crush washers part number M-COP-4. Cost about 18 pounds total including shipping to Texas. Took about a week but this was over a year ago.
https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/oil-pressure-gauge-t-piece-1-4bsp-tp-1-4bsp?pn=TP-1%2F4BSP
David
68 E-type FHC
Thanh’s so much. Great site!