Oil Pressure Relief Valve Help

I’m trying to sort out a potential issue with the oil pressure relief valve on my E-Type. Yesterday I replaced the hose from the oil filter head to the sump and ended up winding out the oil pressure relief valve while removing the old hose (it was bonded onto the hose adapter from age). After slicing the old hose from the hose adaptor fitting I installed the oil pressure relief valve components in the exact orientation they were removed (# 10, 11 & 12 in the diagram below).

In thinking about this orientation afterward, and checking the Parts Manual, I think it may be installed in reverse order, ie. Part 10 is described as a spider (a three fingered brass piece) positioned in the hose adaptor fitting, Part 12 is described as the relief valve (a steel plunger) positioned closest to the filter head, both being separated by the spring. On my install it’s the reverse orientation to this - the spider is positioned closest to the filter head and the relief valve plunger is toward the hose adaptor fitting just as it was removed - however, with this orientation I don’t see how the valve can properly function since the relief valve/plunger under pressure would block any oil from flowing back into the sump.

The images in the parts diagram isn’t as clear as it could be so I’m asking the list about what is the proper order. If I understand this valve correctly I think mine is reversed. Any help would be appreciated.


Gary the small tri lobed piece (the relief valve) is on top just as shown in the manual, with the spider and pin on the bottom of the spring. I had a look at an old filter block I have and that’s the way it’s done.

If the gasket that seals the spout (it’s called an adapter in the parts manual) is copper make sure you anneal it before reusing it. It likes to leak after being messed with.

This is the correct orientation of the “beehive” relief valve. It is meant to bypass a plugged oil filter and maintain oil flow to the engine
Hope this answers your question .

Thanks for your responses. From your description, Terry, mine is flipped the other way around with the spider at the top. Time to remove remove it and turn it around so it can properly function as a valve. :slightly_smiling_face:

“Spider” spigots into the spring, IIRC.

OK, I’ve pulled the OPRV bits out of the filter head and have taken a pic for reference. Here’s how I believe from your descriptions the valve should be installed.

Top is to the filter head, bottom to drain hose:

With your help I believe I’ve got this right. Comments?

Yep! I misremembered how it went: muscle memory!

I think…:wink:

you might renew the spring as it looks twisted

Gary it looks correct to me

Thanks for all of your comments. It’s all back together, fits as it should and seems to be happy. Cheers. :slightly_smiling_face:

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Hi Marco, my ‘beehive’ relief valve has fallen out, and was in the filter canister when I changed the oil. Putting it back into place where you show in the photo, it just rests on a small ledge, and is not very secure. Is there something to fix it in place?

The relief valve is held in place with “prick punches” in the aluminum manifold.
If you enlarge the photo I attached you’ll see them them at 12 , 5 and 8 o clock

Hi Marco - thanks for the quick response. The valve I have fits inside of the hole in the oil filter head, so not near the three ‘prick punches’ It’s tight, but I can pull it out. Will it stay there when the car is running; if not, what is the consequence if oil flows freely into that top hole? It was not in place prior to the oil change, and oil pressure was higher than normal. Ie 60+, dropping to 45-50 when hot.


Here’s a photo of the oil filter head on my 69 as viewed from below, with the plate that the filter sits against removed. You can see the beehive “balance valve” to the left of the central oil feed.

If your filter head looks different, please post a photo so we can work out what you have.


Not sure which hole you are placing the valve in but a photo of your manifold will help.

Hi, the manifold looks like what is in your picture. The beehive balance valve fits in that hole but is held more by friction than the three small punch marks.

Ian, I see the same center punches on your manifold.
Place the valve back in, make sure it is fully seated and center punch it again.

The shape of the center punch point is important. Dull is better than sharp. You want to displace the metal, not cut it. If too close to the edge with a sharp center punch you will simply shear off material. I speak from experience.
An expert knows more and more about less and less until he knows everything about nothing…

Hi Bill, that is very good to know - dull punch it is!
I have an engineer friend who noted: “It appears that there are two ‘staking’ dents visible in your image. They are at the 5 & 8 o’clock positions. This method of metal distortion is used to hold parts together with close tolerances and nominal forces acting on them for assembly where they may he encapsulated at a later stage.”
Many thanks to all for your help!