Yes, but the engine may have been out of the car when it went on 
.
Another recollection, the sump came out blind at the back, that is I never saw what was hanging up on what. It also went in blind, and I worried that the rear seal and/or the rear part of the sump gasket were displaced during installation. Did not leak so I guess all was well.
Rod
On the 4.2 sump, and probably the 3.8 sump as well if they are not the same, there are two bumps at the back. Those bumps, like aluminum blisters are there to provide meat for the back two bolts that hold the windage tray in place. Those bumps frequently are the source of the interference between the reaction plate and the sump. I recall years ago someone mentioning grinding them down a bit for better clearance. Iād not suggest anyone do that. Grind too far and you have a sump with a hole in it.
I had a similar issue , the pan was lose but it was being held by something towards the gearbox. I removed the thin metal dust shield on the gearbox ,the one held by 4- 7/16 bolts, and the pan came out.
Marco
Heh hehā¦I can imagine your face !! I took my sump off the 4.2 engine with minimum tools and no reference book back in the seventies when I made the mistake of allowing a numpty to change my oilā¦the ONLY time this ever happened, always done my ownā¦he managed to get a dob of grit and gunge up the supply hole after changing the filter, and I had heard the unmistakeable rattle of a scoured out big end as I floored the car between a double line of village cottages at 4.30 in the morning, the echo rattling backā¦used two bottle jacks, one on the gearbox pin and the other on the damper, stabiliser nut and slotted spacer out, engine mount bolts out then kept jacking till the car started to liftā¦this was a all on the side of the roadā¦found the globule of gunge scoured into the number two journal and realised what had happenedā¦fitted a new shell and limped home at 40 mph for an engine out/crank regrind, mechanic?? involved denied any liability of course, as they all do !! I did twist the rear sump seal out of position thoughā¦this should really be glued in to save distortion in my opinionā¦
ā¦OUCH!
I canāt recall now what the DPO used in their attempt to seal the holes - bubble gum? I thoroughly cleaned the area and applied JB Weld. This thread has reminded me to take a look under there and see if it is still doing the jobā¦
-David
Absent a tig welder aluminum solder would work well on a thick casting like a sump.
Thanks to everyone for all the responses. This is how I finally got the sump off:
All for a job that I naively thought would take 20 minutes. Good news is, itās back together. No damage and no leaks. Thanks again.
āAbsent a tig welder aluminum solder would work well on a thick casting like a sump.ā
Do you mean like this?
Ouch! That must have hurtā¦ Connecting rod?
Cheers,
LLynn
Rick, can you tell me what the crank position was? I am faced with this task.
Thx,
Bob t
Yes. Looks like a decent job. The stuff isnāt all that easy to work with.
Bob Iād be glad to but Iām currently out of town. I could let you know Thursday evening
Bobā¦did Rick answer the position as I am in that spot right now?
No, did not hear. . .
Archives will have this topic. IIRC Bob Stevenson mentioned how to position the crank.
Marco
I got it offā¦hooray!!
Crank position isnāt important.
Taking the flywheel guard off made a difference and allowed the sump to pass the reaction plateā¦with a bit of gentle leverage persuasion.
I was able to see what was fouling and it was the crank carrier (see photo)
The only way to get it past was to lift the engine at the bell housing after undoing the stabiliser.
Marc,
On my 3.8 the sump will come out clearing the reaction plate by a hair with the back piston slightly before BDC.
With or without engine lift?
BrianM
3.8 with a leaky front crank seal.
