It appears my alternator has decided to go on strike. I’m strongly considering replacing it with a one wire unit. I have AC so the unit sits backwards and clearance could be a problem.
Has anyone with AC installed a one wire unit and if so what did you use. I see Delco makes a 10SI unit that is 60 amps but I’m not sure the mounting ear configuration will clear the bonnet.
Any and all input would be appreciated.
The AC kit I’m installing uses a mini Denso mounted below the compressor, so that’s not what you’re after. But I did a quick Google search for 10SI vs 12SI and found this article, which might be helpful regarding configuration of those two Delco models: http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/delcoremy.shtml
There is also a lot of info regarding the CS series on line. The CS replaced the SI series. And finally, it appears that any of the SI series can be converted to one wire with a simple electronic module (about $20 on ebay and elsewhere). (Google “one wire alternator”).
Eric, Please tell us about the AC kit and the alternator. Thanks, Tom
It’s a RetroAir kit. The company was recently sold to Classic Air (I believe that’s the name). Under dash evaporator modeled after the original factory unit, but bigger vents and supposedly much more efficient. On the 3.8 kit the mini-alternator (60 amp) mounts directly to the original generator bracket. For the 4.2, the compressor is on the bottom, alternator is on top. It’s designed to be a straight bolt-in kit, but I didn’t like how it was laid out and installed it to be as unobtrusive as possible…even ordered plain black vents (without the plastic chrome accents) to help make it blend in with the dash. Good quality parts. Good instructions. Biggest change I made is to move the accumulator off the heat deflector (for the fluid bottles) and position it on an S2 lower heat deflector panel (not in the kit) in order to reduce the clutter/jumble of hoses in that area. That dictated fabricating brackets and redoing hoses. Anyway, here are a few photos. The car is a work in progress, and these are relatively old photos. But the components are all depicted in their final locations (except the accumulator in he second photo). You’ll have to imagine all the hoses hooked up, etc. The flash made the different materials reflect differently on the dash…it actually all blends together in natural light. Note that the radio console has to be cut down…a time consuming job. The last photo shows the electrical distribution center, which I fabricated to deal with alternator conversion, Coolcat fan, halogen headlites, AC loads, etc.
(Difficult to believe I’m concerned with clutter when you look at the stacks of crap in the garage…it’s always a mess, but unusually so with interior and upholstery work in process).
Eric, I too have been thinking about the Retroaire install. The excessive heat here in Phoenix almost mandates it. I have a couple questions. Did the kit include the compressor bracket and does it attach to the block versus the aluminum head ? Also, elsewhere I believe I read that it was suggested to order longer hose lengths as the stock lengths were very challenging. Did you have made some custom lines. Also any tips regarding the cutting of the radio console. Thanks
Yes the main compressor mounting bracket came in the 3.8 kit and it attaches to the block, not the head. There was a small stabilizing bracket at the rear of the compressor that attached to a head stud in the timing chain area of the head. I didn’t like the arrangement and made my own. I’m sure the 4.2 kit comes with necessary brackets. Alternator mount might be an extra cost item…don’t know.
Since I moved the accumulator, I had to reconfigured two of the four hoses for that reason. Then I decided to place the exit hole in the fire wall slightly closer to the center line of the car (to avoid a known issue with condensation dripping on the driver’s leg), so that required one more hose mod. I would have preferred loose hose with an extra foot of length, and a bag of end fittings. I recently advised Retroair to offer this option.
I could make a template of the side profile of the reconfigured radio console and make it available to anyone who would like it, but it’s of little use because the profile is dependent on the angle and fore/aft positioning of the evaporator unit. For example, I’m OK with removing the radio console and dropping the evaporator (two small bolts) if I have to get the center fold out electrical panel fully open. It will open enough to change fuses, but that’s it. The reason is I wanted the evaporator tucked up as close as possible to the main dash to make it look more integrated. A tradeoff. But in general, the ash tray section of the center console basically goes away and the sides are cut to follow the contour of the evaporator case. The radio hole stays. Also, the original brackets for the console are buried under the evaporator, so you’d have to make your own…not in the (3.8) kit.
PM me if you’re seriously interested in a 4.2 kit as there is one design item on the 4.2 kit that I don’t want to discuss here.
Regards
(Apologies to original poster for hi-jacking the alternator question).
