The Marelli ignition cars don’t have the ability to adjust ignition timing as it is electronically controlled by the ignition ECU located on the right side interior kick panel. Retarded ignition timing can cause overheating issues. Have you tried changing the premium fuel plug selection to see if it helps or hurts?
Also, the fuel control ECU, located in the trunk, could be causing a lean AFR that would also contribute to an overheating issue.
Just some other considerations.
This is for the Lucas cars, don’t know what and which apply on the Marelli system.
I just thought of something- based on the recent TIME notes: US spec cars have the “Mexico Fuel” jumper by the break master cylinder to retard time with poor fuel. Possible you have the jumper, if applicable, set to poor fuel? Retarded time = less power, bit more heat. Good luck, you can tell I’m out of ideas otherwise.!
Not applicable as the car is UK spec.
alright, i think i found the issue of car not accelerating
i have finally got fuel pressure gauge and finally got it installed and shame on me i did it so late. So here whats happening with fuel pressure
Behaviour is quite odd, and i cant do proper analysis
Cold
Idle Pressure - 34 PSI, vacuum disconnected - 42PSI
Throttle up with pressure connected - falling briefly to 28ish, after release goes up to 40ish, and immediately back to 34
At operating temperature on idle - 30 PSI, vacuum disconnected - 35
No loss of power and popping yet
Took car for a very good drive, loss of power appeared, checking fuel pressure immediately
Idle - 20 ish, throttle up - falling to 5-10 and huge missfire with popping sound from intake
took me a minute to close a return line with pliers, pressure 60
next minute again with return open, pressure is still 20-ish , but now when i revv it up , it goes up to 30 and car sounds good.
What i mean, that there is a very straight correlation between engine temperature and fuel pressure behaviour. Thats why it was so hard for me to find where the problem was and thats why i thought its a crank sensors. (now they are new)
What does it say? FPR or pump?
Most likely is the pump, but another test would be to see the volume of fuel coming back to the tank via the return line. I would think you should see a quart(or liter) in 30 seconds with the engine running and pump good and hot if the pump is good.
When you disconnect the return line to route into another container, be sure to plug the line into the tank- you can lose a lot of fuel (ask how I know).
Could be both, but usually the FPR either works or not and the pump is more susceptible on temperature changes.
Are your FPRs new?
What kind of pump do you have?
Is your fuel filter new?
Did you clean the sump tank?
How is your fuel tank?
FPR is original, its very rare EBC3387, NLA and no alternatives available.
Original intank pump
fuel filter is new
My car doesnt have sump tank, but year ago i was fixing evap system and tank, intank filter and the rest did look good.
They are both suspects.
For the FPR I’m sure that you could rig an aftermarket part.
BOSCH 0 280 160 508
Yes, i ordered it, i also saw that someone uses it, but its 3.5 bar, not 3, hopefully wont be a problem.
Will also replace a fuel pump, its just i didnt want to pull the tank, PIA job =(