Hi all,
The pedal box removed, also the battery, the heat shields,the front brake bottle, the clutch bottle,hoses, etc.
Took off the clutch cylinder ( had to buy locking adjustable wrench at Sears ), all the nuts are all frozen after 50 years. Now after removing the nuts of the master cylinder it’s not separating, I’m letting it sit for a while soaked with Blaster. Any help will be appreciated.
Also the heat shield has spacers , I believe one on each bolt but I found 2 more spacers when I took out the pedal box. Do these go with the shield or pedal box?
Tanks Benny
looks like a heat shield spacer to me
Yes thanks Pete. The shield plate does have 4 indentations in the back for spacers
I learned about a new method to free frozen bolts. Have not tried it yet but sounds interesting. Using heat and candle wax. Not necessary to overheat, just hot enough to draw wax into threads.
In your case double nut studs to remove.
Glenn
On the subject of pedalboxes: is the brake pedal shaft splined? How difficult is it to move the brake pedal down a few splines without removing the pedal box?
(on an SI 4.2)
The shaft is a solid piece and the pedal has one hole for the setting,permanent setting.
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Benny, where exactly is that hole for positioning the brake pedal (to match clutch pedal height).
Thanks
Patrick
'66 fhc
Patrick
As you can see in the picture there is only one setting for the pedal and clutch, unless maybe you modify the pedal to move up or down slightly.
Thanks Benny,
You have the same clutch/brake combo housing as I have and that one setting bolt is of course the free play setting. In my combo suspect I suspect I have an earlier 4.2 version brake pushrod.
Patrick
'66 FHC
The pedal pivot shaft on my early 4.2 is indeed splined to allow for pedal lever height adjustment. Perhaps the later 4.2 pedal box is different? I believe Benny is referring to the pedal pad mounting, which as he shows is not adjustable. I found it necessary to remove the pedal box to adjust the spline position, but others may have another method. I also changed the angle of the pedal pads to make them more “vertical” by cutting and welding. With those mods I find heel/toe to be much easier
Depending on the magnitude of the change you make, you may find it necessary to go to an adjustable master cylinder pushrod to maintain specified free play.
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Correct, the later 4.2 pedal box I have and unless the rods are equal length and appearance, the pedals will not align /match. Jaguar changed pedal box somewhere in 1966 model run.
Patrick
'66 fhc