Plugged Rad Banjo Bolt!

I’m in the process of putting in new cam gaskets for my '88 VDP using the gortex/Al 1/2 moon plugs option from Kirby’s tremendous “Help for the Jaguar XJS Owner” download. Thanks to Jonas Loda for the fine seals that he machined that I’ve used for the job. As per the advice from the download, after enlarging the banjo bolt holes for the oil feed lines to the back of the tappet block and exchanging (and annealing) the 0.010 washers for 1/16" , I turned my attention to the rad banjo bolt…it was totally plugged! ( probably residual Barrs Leak that I’d added to the coolant when I bought the car in '98, something the owner’s manual recommended. It plugged up the system, blown hoses akimbo and a rad flush later…turned out the Barrs here in NA and the Barrs in Europe are 2 different animals. The owner’s manual definitely shouldn’t be followed in this case!). It was refreshing to be able to freely and easily access something on this car for a change. I’d recommend owners have a look at this just to make sure (in case it was accumulated gunk and not Barrs) that they don’t have the same issue. 5/8 bolt, top right hand side of the rad…can’t miss it!

IIRC, one is spelled Barrs and the other is spelled Barr’s.

And I’m pretty sure the Jaguar dealerships here in the US were stocking the NA product and putting it in cooling systems that came in for scheduled maintenance.

If you need one, I have made a replacement bolt with correctly aligned holes and a new spacer :wink: Now comes with a small Jaguar logo engraved for “cooler” look :slight_smile:

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Looks good! I was able to unplug it w/o any problem. Thanks anyway.

If I’m remembering correctly, the guy that worked on my car back then (worked for Jag, opened his own shop) had my rad farmed out for welding. When it came back, I’d added some Barr’s and it started leaking at some hose unions shortly thereafter. When I mentioned that I’d added the Barr’s as per the manual, he told me that. I guess it’s more likely that the welding shop left some crud in there, but I’ve never added Barr’s since,
I just started working on my car for the last couple years. I was fortunate enough to meet a guy with an '84 XJS who told me about your download. I started reading it, didn’t really understand a lot of it - kinda overwhelming - but was able to replace the rear rotors and calipers with the tremendous help from the section on the rear brake work (it convinced me to take out the whole rear end out and work on it out of the car). I’m glad I have this opportunity to thank you for putting that thing together. I’m looking forward to a 2nd read now that I’ve been working on the car for a couple years and have been working through an auto correspondence course.

You realize that because of your nifty imprint, you are going to drive the OCDers right over the edge, figuring out how to make the imprint be in the correct orientation, when tight, right?

:joy::joy:

:)))))) I’ll have to include a set of different thickness copper washers for indexing :))

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And John can really drive us nuts with choices between Jaguar, Leaper or Growler imprints

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Which way do you want it to face?

Assemble, note orientation, disassemble, anneal all 3 copper washers, reassemble with no other changes. Each time you anneal and reassemble will probably move it a bit. And you could always file one washer a bit thinner, perhaps in the course of smoothing it a little bit.

AHA!!!

We found a live one…:stuck_out_tongue_closed_eyes:

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IIRC it was standard procedure for the AJ6 engine to add Barrs leak at every service :frowning:

You could also do that, so all the spark plug ground electrodes face the same direction…:laughing:

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OOH, OOH OOH, Mr Kotter! Mr Kotter!
Someone with a 3D printer could make little plastic caps that snap onto the banjo bolts, and imprint the plastic caps. Then we could just install the banjo bolts, torque 'em, and then affix said imprinted cap

Darn, wish I had a 3D printer…

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Siddown, Horshack!

:laughing:

oh nice !
I still need to fit mine with the previous design, it should be soon now as the radiator came back after being cleaed, checked and painted