Hi,
My steering pump (E-type 1970) is blocked.
So I’m looking for a replacement. Does anyone want to sell this?
Attached some pictures how the pump looks like.
Thanks,
Harrie
I had mine rebuilt by Coventry West
Hi,
I dismantled the pump to find the root cause for the blocking behavior.
I couldn’t find the reason.
But I noticed that the locking behavior occurs when I assemble it again.
The reason is shown in picture_3 marked by red arrows (width of rotor and cilinder is the same).
I don’t know what I’m doing wrong.
Someone any idea or advise?
Thanks,
Harrie
Harrie, not sure what you are describing by the pump is “blocking” and "locking. Is this a problem when operating the car or is the shaft getting tight when you assemble the pump?
Tom
Hi Tom,
It’s the last one:
The shaft is getting tight when I assemble the pump.
Because the width of ‘A’ and ‘A’ (see picture) is the same.
As far as I know there wasn’t a “shim” or something like that during disasemble.
Regards,
Harrie
How are you measuring the widths of the parts, with a micrometer?
The gear and rollers should be slightly narrower than the outer “ring”, maybe by .001-.002". Look for any burs. Might you be missing a gasket on the ring?
Try assembling with a piece of copy paper as a gasket, does it now rotate?
Do you know the history of this part? It’s possible someone tried to tighten up the clearance by sanding the ring and went to far…
Harrie, these pumps have very tight tolerances. The tight metal to metal tolerance is what prevents oil from leaking, not rubber seals. If almost anything is worn other than the seal, it would be difficult to fix. Which is why Jaguar says to replace, not repair. But that is not what you want. So, are all the parts original to the pump? Any part that was not, may not work as its tolerance may not be compatible. Has any part been dropped or in any way nicked? If you have not already, I would try assembling by oiling all the parts well. Everything should be extremely clean. Then slowly tighten the bolts, constantly turning the pump shaft as you go. The smallest spec of dirt will often cause it to bind, and turning the shaft will help to push that dirt out of the way. When done, the shaft may still be snug, and you will have to decide if that is “good enough.” Often, even though snug, it will run when started. If it feels too bound, you may want to try assembly in sections, ie. try just the rotor first and see how it is. Then add some rollers. Maybe you will find a particular part that is the issue, and dress it slightly. If you do almost any metal removal to dress a part, chances are it will leak too much when done to work. I do not know the specs on this pump, but similar pumps can have tolerances as little as 0.0001 inch.
What was the original issue with the pump? Leaking externally, or low flow and not able to build pressure? Depending on the failure, it may not be easily repairable. You may need to go with a replacement/rebuilt.
Tom
Hi,
This week I created 2 shims (0.1 mm each) of aluminium this prevent that the shaft is blocked after assembling. They are placed on both sides of ‘A’ (see foto).
The pump on the bench is working now. But I noticed still a havy steering after placing the pump in the car.
Does anybody know what the minimum delivered pressure should be of this pump?
Thanks,
Harrie
Per the manual, relief pressure is 1000 psi.
By installing the two shims, you have created clearances that are so great the pump does not have a chance.
Assuming the parts are all original to the pump, any shim will increase tolerances to unacceptable levels.
Did you try assembling as I suggested?
Tom
Tom is correct you now have way too much clearance. Can you a assemble with only one shim or something thinner?
Obviously there is a point that before one trashes it, why not give it a try. But again, any shim will probably be too much. At one point, the pump would turn. Now it does not. The parts did not grow as they wore, they got smaller. That already means the pump is less efficient than when new. Why does it bind now? Somewhere there is a very small “bump” or dirt on the metal. But turning while tightening, you may be able to dislodge it, or at least get it where turning it will “wear” off that imperfection. If that imperfection is too great, and it gouges too much, the pump will not work.
I have reassembled brand new pumps with no perceived imperfections. They often get tight unless turning while assembling. They are too snug when totally assembled. But once run and oil flushes them totally, they are okay. Some of these hydraulic components can have tolerances so tight that if you hold the one part in your hand too long, the part expands enough that one cannot reassemble until cooled down.
I do not know why this pump was removed. I do not know its history. But if it was removed because it did not work, this pump is probably worn out and shot, but that does not mean it is not worth the try. Once properly assembled, who knows, it may work fine. It only needs to build up a few hundred PSI to be fair.
Tom
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Hi Tom,
You’re right. The shims aren’t necessary.
This week I disassembled the pump again and polished both surfaces of the outer rings.
After assembling the rotor is turning without resistance.
Today installed the pump in the car. It’s a bit better now but still not optimal according to me.
Harrie
Ditch the soda can idea. Rather, fashion a shim out of aluminum foil. Or aluminum tape.
Hi,
Just an update (I know it’s 3-years ago). But the original Hoborn-Eaton power steering pump is still not working (pressure to low). Therefore I decided to try it with an XJ6 power steering pump.
Last week I created a bracket on the location of the aircopump. The original airco isn’t working as well and I prefer power steering above airco.
Today I started the engine and I noticed the difference now. Finally after all these years; Steering goes easy.
A few fotos
Well Done
You don’t wanna peak too early – 