Pro Alloy and NAR Radiators in a Proteus?

Does anyone have first hand experience about how well these bespoke radiators fit Proteus/Copycats C-types? I am ready to buy soon.
I like that Pro Alloy built theirs using an original radiator to model from.

Thanks


The answer is the ProAlloy is too tall for a Proteus or copycats. The bottom outlet directly fouls the frame crossmember. I had to have a shorter core put in and raise the side mounts a like amount. It looks great now that it fits.


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Hey Mark, did you find someone locally to re-core it? I didn’t know there were any shops around who did that kind of work anymore.

~Mike

Hi Mark…you can remove those spring playes on the lower wishbones…will save you a few pounds and you can go faster…Steve

I can’t, the lower shock mount is welded to them.

Hey Mike, a fellow on the Jaguar replicas forum told me about CG&J radiator in Gadsden AL. They make custom alloy radiators, intercoolers, etc for anything. They put in a new shorter core and used my upper and lower tanks and brackets.I was lucky to find them.

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Hi Mark…thats ashame the lower shock mount is welded…also looking close at your upper wishbones they look upside down as the threaded boss is on tbe top?..Steve

I thought the same thing about the upper wishbones, for appearance alone if nothing else. There is an angle to them so they can’t be flipped over and work properly. And evidently on some cars there is an upper rubber stop bracket that bolts to the arms from the top.

Hi Mark…thanks for the info and drawing… didnt realise some had upper bump stops…hope you dont mind me questioning…Steve

Hi Steve, no problem at all. I certainly don’t have all the answers!

If you flip them over, then changed sides, wouldn’t the angle be correct?

Hi Paul…i dont know for Marks upper wishbones…but on my Realm C useing xj6 parts the front/rear arms of the upper wishbone are handed so couldnt be swapped… Steve

Hi Paul, it is a slight upward angle to better match the balljoint. If the arm were flipped over the angle would be opposite.

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Coming late but to this, obvs, but FWIW, their D oil and coolant radiators are exact copies, and therefore fit together correctly as well as to the ‘picture frame’. The correct asymmetrical placement leaves room for the air intake duct from bonnet mouth to Webers.

Hi Peter, I’m building a C. A shorter radiator core


from the bottom sorted the problem.

Hi Mark,

Yes, believe it or not :grinning:, I did read to the end of the thread and therefore knew what I was writing was too little too late and the wrong car (D-type) for your build.

Thing is, the forum is also there for future inquiriers. It can be especially useful on this specialist non-standard vehicle list, where far higher proportion of inquiries will require personal experience other than the textbook replies on other lists which wouldn’t have answered your question much.

My ‘ FWIW’ two bob’s-worth, was in case someone searched for something slightly less specific and asked about replica radiators more generally.

Onwards and upwards :slight_smile:

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Hi Peter, that wasn’t a criticism, all posts are valuable to someone at some time.
Maybe you know this, since I haven’t had a response in the engine section. I’m ready to install the cylinder head studs in my 3.8 for the C-type. The middle five studs are open into the water jacket. Should I use a thread sealer of anything else on them when installing the studs?
Thank you

Hi Mark…it would seem obvious to me that the threads need sealing or coolant will find a way past…a quick forum search found this…Steve Cylinder head stud orientation

Hi Steve, I was leaning that way. I don’t want any seepage up into the cylinder head causing corrosion.

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