Nice. The only downside is that it can’t move sideways as well, but it will definitely work. Mind the tank sump.
The major issue with a 2+2 is that everything is cramped. Not a lot of room to undo the mountings. And I recall it was a pig to relocate some of the the nuts on their bolts on reassembly. Loosening the radius arms from the body the first time required Archimedian logic, and copperslip to ease the process thereafter.
I’ve dropped (not literally) mine three times for various reasons. It can be done single handedly. No special tools were required, ordinary trolley jack, various ring and ratchet spanners, a podger to realign the holes.
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Ok a few more questions
I will mark the driveshaft with orientation to the differential to bolt back up in the correct orientation.
Are the other parts “ sided “
I should keep right on right and left on left? Seems like a pain in ass to keep track of
I will have all parts Media blasted then ( powder, coat or por -15 ) the paint will take a bit of time but saves a bit of coin
Seems there are lots of options on bushings. Would only do OE jag parts but moss does sell an up rated set for the arms and to mount the irs to the body…….thoughts
And last for now rebuild the DIF. Or replace seals and bearings if such a thing ……I would have that done for me . Where do I get the red paint for the dif ?
Thanx all
Yes, the KO’s. Make sure you replace them on the correct side of the car otherwise you risk losing a wheel going down the road……
Note which distance pieces went where and don’t mix up the hubs as said.
Calipers etc only fit one way.
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take notes on shims for the metalastic mounts to car and for differential mounting to cage.
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You might want to check the camber on each side before removing the assembly (with the car on its wheels), and then again after the rebuild (with the unit removed from the car). Adding or subtracting camber shims with the unit installed is very cumbersome.
Depends
I can take mine out in 3 hrs but it’s been out
Clean no rust no screwed up bolts ,anti seize and I’ve cobbled together everything I need to do it over the years and I’m familiar with the gotchas,it could take you a day just to jack the car and secure it if you don’t have the equipment
Now how are you getting the exhaust apart without wrecking it and what cage mount bolts are going to be seized
How much rust is around your radius arm mounts and are they structurally sound . I bring my cage out the side on a trolly jack but I’ve got the room. ( car can be lower)
3 hrs 3 weeks 3 years there can be all kinds of problems not to scare you but some can be serious ( structural) Hopefully you have none off those but these cars are 65 years old and rust never sleeps .
Nothing on a Jag will be easy the first time even for the experienced just be prepared for it
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I did mine many years ago in a small garage and had a friend help with Remove and Replace.
My suggestion is that ince you have it out, renew/rebuild everything because you don’t want to do it again ever!
I sent the diff to a shop who replaced seals, checked mesh and preload, checked bearings, reassembled. Also: u-joints, all bearings and seals replaced in hubs, all suspension arm bearings and bushings replaced including in the leading arm, new metallastic cage mounts, rebuilt calipers etc
It has been 20 years and no issue from the rear except a click from a hub. that was the well known spline problem which I have fixed twice with red loctite!
Dennis
69 OTS
My bench tests suggest “standard” bushings from aftermarket suppliers tend to be lower stiffness than the corresponding original parts. Many “uprated” bushings were similar stiffness to the originals, not significantly stiffer.
Based on theoretical head-scratching I’d be wary of making the rear radius arm any stiffer than the original spec. My reason is that the motion of the arm is in conflict with the motion prescribed by the transverse links (because the lower link is an H-arm, not a true wishbone) - so making the radius arm stiffer would increase its “authority” relative to the IRS cradle mounts, increasing its tendency to pull the wheel to a steer angle.
I have an abstract idea that using a stiffer IRS cradle mount at (only) the rear position would counter the above effect, but I have yet to find a mount which is usefully stiffer than the original. I’m currently working with some samples in pursuit of that goal.
First time I remounted the IRS, I was about to wind on the spinner to secure a wheel when…
…old hands at this game will know what is coming next…
…I realised the hubs were on the wrong side. The hubs are handed but the hub carriers are not - they are symmetrical.
A year or so earlier I had heard about a friend’s car, an early coupe, which list a road wheel whilst he was driving across France due to just such an error. In his case it was a resto shop that had mounted the hubs on the wrong side. I should have known. Subsequently, I kept the spinners with their hubs at all times.
“Nothing on a Jag will be easy the first time even for the experienced just be prepared for it”
Man that is so true. If I had known… 
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Two tips from my memory bank…
I slotted the ends of the bolts that secure the safety straps to the floorboards… this allows them to be undone from below with a thin screwdriver and a wrench (no interior removal).
My favorite tool for freeing the radius arms was an angle grinder (or Dremel if you’re the patient sort).
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Though some would disagree, it seems that the balance of information now favours the view that the diffs were painted black at the factory. The low quality black drippy paint was applied directly over glyptal, to which it did not adhere well. As a result, much of the black paint flaked off and in some cases almost entirely disappeared - hence the view by some that the black paint was not applied to all cars. That said, since the dark red glyptal is more pleasing to the eye, many restorers (including myself) have used it and not overpainted it. The primary purpose of Glyptal with castings such as the diff housing was to trap particles of casting sand to prevent them from floating free in the oil filled environment and causing damage to the rotating components. It is expensive. I bought mine from Eastwood:
-David
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when removing the cage leave the REAR metalistic mounts on the car (ie undo the cage from the mounts) and leave the front mounts attached to the cage(ie remove the bolts holding the mounts to the car)saves a lot of hassle.Use same method upon reassembling JOHN
Good work David I didn’t know that but I did wonder why they bothered to paint the inside
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They also painted the engine and gearboxes with glyptal inside. I have a bit of black paint left in some spots but most is gone.
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So not can remove the back section on the exhaust after the resonators so can jack up the rear end for Jack stands
Love to just drive the car and not work on it.
So totally frustrated with this car ……grrrrrr
Don’t want to cut off a new system. Will try a little heat
My tr4 has been so much more enjoyable:)
Can you share a photo of how the resonators are clamped ?
First is it stainless ,not being familiar with your car it maybe easier to remove the exhaust as a complete unit from the exhaust pipe manifold retainer 8 bolts
Check the archives for a bracket to raise the car with the exhaust installed
Spray the joints with some kind of liquid wrench and you can use a Dremel to cut a slit on the side to relieve the joint . A fire wrench is always good acetylene/o2
Beating the mufflers rearward works but risks damaging them ,cushion them with a piece of 2x4 . Any or all of the combined procedures may work
The pipes can be a bear to separate hence my advise to complete unit