Seriously how hard is it to pull the rear end out of this car?
I want to pull it out myself take it apart, clean it get things and maybe have somebody else put it together
Just wondering
Hard to Swallow $150 an hour to have somebody work on it
I have seen many videos on people doing it and it doesn’t seem that “complicated “
Thanx
It’s a relative question, depends on your capability and what you have to work with. You are right, there isn’t that much to it, the bare minimum is a workshop manual, good floor jack, basic tools, and reasonable capability. If you get stuck on something there are plenty of us around here to help.
One word of caution and this is not obvious, once the car is off the ground the IRS is mounted to the body (frame) by four rubber mounts only. These are likely not in great shape on your car and could fail under the tension. Be sure to always have it firmly supported from below.
While I didn’t drop my IRS myself, I watched/shagged tools as @Wiggles removed mine just 2-3 months ago. There are surprisingly few connections to be undone.
Clearly the most demanding/daunting is to release the large radius arm bushings at the forward edge of the trailing arms from the undercarriage.
Now, Paul has prolly dropped dozens of IRSs in his wrenching years – he did it in 3 hrs. Half of that time was dealing with releasing the large radius arm bushings. He’ll likely chime in but I’d guess (after reading/studying the ROM) you could have it on the floor in a full day’s effort.
No special tools required - other than a sawz-all or similar to defeat the large radius arm bushings; hand tools will suffice.
A short photo-story covering dropping my IRS is found starting at post #98 of Craig Restores a Series III - Part XIV
Couple of things, it’s damned heavy. Next, be warned that when you release the IRS from the car, the car then becomes VERY front heavy so you’ll need to SUPPORT THE FRONT. This depends of course on whether you have the car on a lift or the front is off the ground in some other way.
You need at least a day, ideally a transmission scissor jackand a wooden board to protect the plate and good jackstands (I prefer wood). It must be high enough that the IRS can slide out. It’s roughly 25 screws and some might be stuck, otherwise it’s a walk in the park… not easy but not impossible. You will however want to give up a few times especially upon refitting when something doesn’t line up.
The center of gravity is a few inches forward of center.
I like removing it for anything serious (not pads, but calipers etc.)
Yabbut… yers was the first one I dropped!
I’ve done several. I’d say it’s really easy, but depends on your mechanical skills.
Have mechanical skills for sure and tools
Just super frustrated with the car
Can’t just enjoy it for a bit before something else goes wrong. Just Learning about the car and fixing stuff.
Had a rear caliper lock up today. Pulled over and got it home on a truck ( shit )!
But being who I am and wanting to put new shocks in it anyway might as well make the whole thing new and shiny.
I have this as well
They are so front heavy they are easy to drop off the jack. I put the wheels back on once they are loose from the car. Much easier to move around without fear of dropping further than you want.
Having just done this, I heartily concur that it is HEAVY! I got it down with a transmission jack, but found that insufficient to hoist it back, needed my hydraulic motorcycle lift, that jack in your photo looks perfect. It also moved around some suspended by chains from a tractor bucket for outdoor stuff like degreasing. Mechanically straightforward but expect hiccups like rusted bolts that may break, stuck big end radius arm bushes. Getting things lined up with new mounts for reinstallation is fun. Given you had a stuck caliper, Moss sells new replacements cheaper than you can rebuild for, may still be on sale.
As I remember, weight of my '62 differential assembly was 303 lb.
My jack will lift that no problem
Might start soaking the arm bushings now with PB
Will start looking for parts
Wonder if should open up diff. Want to do bearings and u joints for sure
I just had mine out for a rebuilt differential. I took off the bottom tie plate first so that the cage would come off easier once let down. Removed axle shafts and shocks. Tied up the swing arms. Clamped off the brake hose and cut it ( due for replacement). Used a Harbor Freight motorcycle lift. Knocked out the inner shafts once it was on the floor, lifted off the cage, cleaned it. Removed brake cylinders, found them rusted inside. Went back with the Moss cylinders with modern seals. Had to tilt and spin the cage over to get some details done. Not so heavy I couldn’t do it alone. Back up into place , then put in axle shafts , hubs, and shocks. Not so heavy to lift that way
helps to have it on an old piece of carpet here. When you roll it over it doesn’t smash.
Looking under the cars and trying to figure out where to put the jackstands for that point load
Under the ‘frame’ underrails, right at the front part of the IRS opening.with a block of wood.
Would you have a picture?
Erik; your 2+2 has four points to lift the car, unlike the OTS and or coupe that have only one on each side. So you can support the car at each corner with a jack stand and it will be very solid and safe. I also made a lifting bar out of a heavy 1.5 inch tube, put a slot in the front of the tube for the front lift point and at the rear of the tube I mounted a 1 inch long piece of square with a flat piece of flat stock with a slot for the rear lift point. It was positioned and tacked in place then welded after the position was confirmed by matching the lift points. Then you can put it in place and lift the car with a jack on each side, once up in the air place the jack stands. Never get under the car with out the jack stand support, I have seen a couple of people that did not follow that caveat, nothing to do for them but wish they had followed the caveat.
I will try and post some photos tomorrow.
Hutch3
It took me a while to find this reference from the archives:
I made this simple tool (bought a 1 inch UNC bolt, modified it with a grinder and a hacksaw) and it worked a treat. Super easy…
