Questions on the last bits of IRS final assembly

Final pieces on the IRS getting assembled today. Almost done… Two questions.

  1. Is this almost 1/8" gap normal between the hub carrier and the washer? The bolt moves side to side easily. Not sure if I missed something.
  2. Do I need washers for the shock bolts? For the life of me I don’t have any that fit the huge bolt. I did a pretty good job with pics, but I don’t see one of these areas before disassembly.


No slop in my carrier bolts- there are many pieces to this assembly:

No slop in my shock mounts either, large washers under the lock nut…

I’m wondering why you have that gap in your hub carrier pinion shaft assembly? Are the threads on it bottoming out such that it can’t be fully cinched? Or is the ID of the washer not big enough to slip fully on? Are these the factory pinion shafts and washers? It looks to me like something other than just the pinion shaft is showing behind that washer.

Yes you should use washers on the shocks. You may have a Fastenal store locally that would have them.

Note: you’re going to be disappointed if you assemble all of this before attaching the training arms to it. The rear trailing arm bolt has to slip through behind the hub carrier.

Good point on trailing arms. Shock bolts aren’t tightened up yet. Just wasn’t sure on washers. So, how do you explain the hub carrier bolt being too long? Shims would affect pre-load and centralizing of the hub carrier, but what would make the bolt too long on the hub carrier assembly? The washers used only go on the threaded part of the shaft, right?

There are no large washers shown in the parts book for the fulcrum shaft, and I’ve never seen them used either. There should be no need for them. I have no explanation for a fulcrum shaft that’s too long other than to suggest you have something non stock on the car.

You use washers on the bottom of the shocks to prevent the shock absorber from coming off the shaft in the event of a bushing failure. In other words the washer should be at least as big as the metal ring around the bushing.

I’d agree with Terry. That lower fulcrum assembly is supposed to be under a preload, ie., there is a specified negative clearance, and part of the set-up is to assemble it all complete with the shaft, shims and bearings, first with a clearance, then after removing the correct amount of shims, the proper per-load.

So it should have been apparent during the set-up procedure that something was not right with the shaft.

Yep as stated I don’t think I have washers on my hub pinion shaft either. Those huge nuts take care of that business quite sufficiently. Maybe those are the washers you’re missing for your shocks?

Where did those pinion shafts come from? Is that the shaft that is protruding or something else? You should only be seeing threads poking out.

Having read through this, my comments.

Preload on the bearings will not affect this. The critical dimensions are the width of the ends of the wishbone and the depths of the threads on either end of the fulcrum pin. So one of these is wrong if the nuts are really bottomed out on the threads.

There should be a big thick washer under each nut which sits flush on the outside of the wishbone and lets you tighten the nut down. Not having this in place will shorten your threads by double the thickness of the washer; easily 1/4". Make sure that the ID of your washer is big enough that slides freely on the unthreaded section of the shaft.

With washers installed, if you still have the problem, I would inspect the threads and ensure that the nuts are really going on all the way; this is likely to be the cause of your problem.

AS shown above there should be a strong washer under the nuts for the shock absorber that is bigger in OD than the rubber bush to make it impossible for the shock absorber to move laterally.

Have u got the fulcrum shaft and the shock shaft swapped…without going out and looking cant think if they are of similar size

I’m thinking the shock shaft is smaller, but am not near the car to check. Good guess though.

Correct. 20 characters.

The shafts aren’t really interchangeable. So, the 3/16"ish thick washer that I had (qty 4) I used inside the fulcrum space of the hub carrier. Now, it’s looking like I need to take them from in-between the seals and stick them in the outside of the wishbone. Found this pic deep in my iPhone. Good thing I have to pull it apart anyway to get the bolts in for the trailing arm. Does anyone have a length on those 1/2" bolts btw? My orig are eluding me.


Something ain’t right there. Mine’s a different year but it’s still a S1 and my shafts are nowhere near so long. Could you measure that overall length of one? I think I have an extra one out in the garage to measure. It simply shouldn’t be sticking out like that. I’m almost certain that mine doesn’t even have washers on the outside of the control arm yoke, just nuts.

SNG doesn’t show washers there either. The parts showing under the nuts in the diagram are actually thin shims to be placed as needed inside the yoke to take up space if needed so the hub can’t clunk back and forth if there is a small gap!/English/FindParts/Families/E-Type%20~2F%20XKE/3/78/9705/7809/1/10/1/viewassembly/22586/:REAR%20HUB,%20CARRIER%20&%20OUTER%20FULCRUM%20SHAFT

Stacey Looking at your photos and some shafts I’ve got here, your problem is that you have a shock absorber fulcrum shaft in the hub carrier. Both shafts are 5/8" diameter, but the shock shaft takes a 7/16" nut, and the hub shaft a 5/8" nut. The ends of the shock shaft are cut down to use the smaller nut, and the shoulder on each end, going from 5/8 to 7/16 are far enough apart that it will be too long for the hub.

Ah!! that makes sense now. I now recall that rather large shoulder on the end of the shock shaft and from the photos those nuts on his carrier pinion do look too small, like shock nuts. Mystery solved!

Doug, there aren’t supposed to be any washers under the outer fulcrum lock nut. The nuts you show are not in safety. There should always be 1-1/2 threads showing outside ant nylock nut.

So maybe “there’s no slop” …yet. :flushed:

Ugh. I’m an idiot. I need to quit this sport. Thanks guys.

Steven, I’m sure many of us got things wrong until we lesrned more.

But for the 6 cylinder E-Type, I found that the factory manual or the Haynes too are excellent guides and following the instructions carefully will usually result in sucess. I rebuilt every nut and bolt on my '62 Coupe using only the Haynes manual. It’s pretty much a copy of the factory manual for the S1, at least.

Easy mistake to make.

Well considering how many posts it took to figure it out, you’re in good company. Mine was rebuilt 18 years ago, so I have no excuses for not spotting it. They’re complicated beasts. At least you asked rather than just assuming it was fine and going for a drive.