Hey all,
I’ve had a hankering as of late to perhaps build a replica
of the Broadspeed XJ-12C race car. I thought I’d heard
mention somewhere on J-L of replica fender flares being
available somewhere either in the UK or US. Truth or fallacy?
Cheers,
Aaron–
'85 XJ6 s/n 426288, '69 XKE FHC s/n 1R 26612, '96 VdP
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
//please trim quoted text to context only
In reply to a message from zundfolge! sent Mon 16 Aug 2010:
Hi zundfolge,i will make a few enquiries and get back to you,i have
a broadspeed replica which is currently awaiting a new hot
engine,we hope to race it next season,so I will be looking for
spare bodykits,ian.–
The original message included these comments:
of the Broadspeed XJ-12C race car. I thought I’d heard
–
eccossejag
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php –
//please trim quoted text to context only
In reply to a message from zundfolge! sent Mon 16 Aug 2010:
body kit was made by Fibre Sports in the UK–
XJR5 006, & Jaguarsport Ltd for all things XJR15
London, United Kingdom
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php –
//please trim quoted text to context only
In reply to a message from owneroftheXJR15tooling sent Wed 22 Sep 2010:
yes the kit was made by fibresports but they had a big fire and
the molds got destroyed
so at this moment there is no one making the kit anymore
and it will be extreemly hard to find a kit
the people who have one will not part with it for little
money
i know I have a set and I will not sell it but I have
fear to drive the car as the kit is no longer available–
mitch73_nl
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php –
//please trim quoted text to context only
In reply to a message from mitch73_nl sent Thu 7 Oct 2010:
DO you know how easy it is to make a mold from a part? In the
trade they are called a splash mold and locally you could get a
spalsh mold made for a few hundred dollars…
I do them myself and a fender would take me a few hours of prep
time. (mostly cleaning and then putting a heavy, thick coat of
paste wax on. Buffing it & repeat 3 times). No real skill is
required and no it’s not a hopeless mess if you can be systematic
about it. (Don’t do it anyplace windy)
The only ‘‘trick’’ is to make your part lines so that nothing is
ever reverse drafted (another words, trapped in the mold by the
contours of the mold itself). A ball would have 1 part line across
the middle.
For a splash mold that will be used to make only a few parts. (5-
6) Better molds, 2-300 part use PVA as a seperating agent plus have
a gel coat 1st & then 3/8ths or thicker. The part lines can be
simple Cardboard flanges. I use corragated cardboard from whatever
large boxes I can find. Wax the heck out of the side where a
second piece of cardboard will join together to make the part
line…You use cheap thin fiberglas mat in many layers. Make the
mold 1/4-3/16ths inch thick. Cut all the pieces first to enable it
to neatly lay down on the part without any bunching (including
cutting pieces for the flange). Lay everything out and work on
tables etc. that have been protected by a covering.
Once everything is cut, laid out, and organized put on dispossable
gloves and mix the resin and hardner…
Using a disposabal brisle brush wet down the part, lay the first
pieces on it then use the brush to dab it down and try to remove
air bubbles. Work systematically and sooner than you can believe
you’ll be done… Don’t worry about the edges… You trim them as it
dries with a sharp utility knife just as it turns leathery. You can
still trim the edges with a cut off wheel or fine hack saw blade if
you wait too long…
Let the mold harden for at least 24 hours. More is better!
Then take apart the flanges and pop the original undamaged
part from the mold…
Re wax the mold at least 3 times before you spray gel coat into
the mold and make a part
Once you have a mold you can buy carbon fiber and do a wet lay
up. The resulting part will be much stronger than it’s fiberglas
counterpart and yet about 1/2 or less of the weight…
If you are really hyper about weight learn to Vacum bag it and
you’ll save about another 20% of the weight… IF you have access to
an autoclave you can save another 15%.
I did a wet lay up of a XK-E series 3 bonnet… and the resulting
part weighs only 33 pounds compared to 184 pounds of a stock
bonnet.
If I did a lay up in fiberglas cloth it would weigh about 70#'s and
done in Mat the weight would be up to near 90 pounds (and much more
likely to shatter in an accident)
The cost of a splash mold for the XK-E bonnet was about $50.00,
and since I used expired (out of date for aircraft use) carbon
fiber I barely spent $100 making the actual part…–
MGuar
Wayzata Minnesota, United States
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php –
//please trim quoted text to context only
how did you do your arches??
hey had the bodykit hand made by a guy who used to work for rolls Royce the arches are hand made along with all the other stuff on a English wheel , the man was a master on that wheel . then it was all lead filled .
