It used to make a difference especially in cooler weather which I of course blamed on Lucas.Will try again.It always made a difference,then would miss,then straighten out.
Squirted in each air filter while missing with no change but did help with starting and idle.
Am truly embarressed to zsk this but i have to-- OK, Ihave the flywheel 3 teeth BTDC cam out left ay 90 degrees#_ set to fire,the rotor for instance isnt you mightexpect but is dead on say where 2 would be.do you connect # 6 tl that then follow the firing order counter clock wise, but something just aint right. sorry
Yes. If you can’t loosen the distributer and turn it far enough for the rotor to align with the #6 plug lead then you will need Pull the #2 plug wire from the cap and replace it with the#6 plug lead. Pull the #4 plug lead and replace it with #2. Proceed ccw untill all the wires have landed.
All done accurately.Runs missing with micro fully advanced
but won’t run other wise,.Doing carbs since g
Sounds like you need to advance the distributor body to allow the micro adjuster to be centred so that you can refine the timing further.
Do you have a multimeter? If so, remove the wire from the coil that goes to the distributor ( +ve lead on a +ve earth car or cb (circuit breaker) on some coils) and connect to one lead of your mm, the other lead to earth, with the scale reading resistance (ohms). You should read zero ohms if the points are closed, infinity if open.
Set your crankshaft to your firing position ( 7 degrees BTC or whatever) Loosen the clamp on the dist and slowly turn it whichever way you need to to get a zero ohms ( continuity) reading and then turn it the other way until it JUST reads infinity, This is the point at which the points have just opened and fired the plug on no 6 ( or no 1) At this setting the engine should run very well if all else is correct and will only need minute adjustment with the vernier for fine tuning. If you have rough running, backfiring or any other problems, ignition timing is not the issue and you need to look elsewhere.
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Agree and with vernier playing a noticeable role Inws planning to “mess” with the dizzy body and slowly turn it to see if thing would change.First I have to figure out how to loosen the bracket.
Makes sense since I can change things with the vernier.Have mm,hands,tools but skill appears to be lacking.Will try that i f I can get to the clamp to loosen.
Loosen the nut at the red arrow. 7/16" wrench. Then you can turn the dist body.
Once you get it set up with the points just opening, you can fine tune it with the vernier and get it exactly right; a click or two either way should see the meter reading fluctuate .Then you know your base point is right.
sometimes space can be very tight to get to that dizzy clamp nut–the 7/16 if as original…so, I have ground a wrench end quite thin which helps a little…If it is really troublesome, invisible to see, can only do by feel, and only a flat at a time turning, and no room for hand, knuckles, arms…then you are doing it right.
Nick
Would a distributor wrench work? Im zbout to rip more skin off forearm
Probably not. I haven’t found anything but the ground thin open end.
If there is anything other tha 7/16 I screwed.I doing it before church so I can asj for forgiveness.
Church didnt work.After severe punishment i loosened the dizzy clamp.The distributor turns but snaps right back when released.Seemed to come closer.The to starting whem twisted clockwise
The BTDC has been set 3-4 teeth before TDC and the car ha been jeked but not pushed any distance forwatd and backwards.Whe it decides to crank runs really rough now
I thought you could turn the dizzy till it ran smoothly then clamp it.Question is why the dizzy wont stay turned and do i need just readjust the flywheel to TDC?
When turning the disributor, you are turning the entire assembly? Base, cap, plug wires all assembled. Just need to slightly loosen the clamp so you can make small adjustments to the base as the engine is running. If there is that much torque on the rotor to turn it as the engine is running it needs some serious cleaning and lubrication.
I would suspect the latter.The whole assembly turns but wont stay turned pops back like the rotor does
Engine is tying to start but not running which sounded like the engiine was trying to start better.If the engine is running will the turn stay where its turned? Will go try now to get it going? Thanks
If you set the timing as I suggested, you KNOW it’s right and the engine WILL start, unless there is some other issue, in which case you need to identify that. At the moment you are chasing your tail. IMO, of course, 
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The rotor springs back with the help of the mechanical advance springs. The whole unit springing back seems strange. Plenty of slack (flexibility) in the vacuum advance tubing, plug wires, and primary wires? The distributor shaft should turn very easily in the distributor housing. If not might try a big shot of pb Blaster or similar into the distributor housing down below the points plate and hopefully it would loosen up the shaft in the bearings. Use the straw on the can. I wouldn’t douse the points. Let it sit for a few hours to make its way down the shaft. Better yet pull it out of the block and thoroughly clean. If it hasn’t been pulled from the block in a while, it might be stubborn. Let it soak with the pb Blaster as well.
If you have interference with water pump hoses or the engine block or no flex with vacuum advance tubing might need to swap the plug wires again so the distributor base can be in a happy place.