Left field here but is the cap off while you are trying to turn and the cap retainer is being forced against the engine block?
Is not.Going for the carb today.Reason is recently had to change the non floating float.When I turn the dizzy things smooth out but the definate miss is still there.
The engine starts but only when the micro is in extreme advance position,ease off at all ad it stops.When running is missing.I connected wth 3 BTDC rotor on 6 made sure plugs to correct plave,new rotor,condenser,filed points.
IMO I have caught my tail and it aint the problem.Checking the back carb since early on the right exhaust seemed the rough one .Anyhow the chase continues.
chasing 3 or 4 tails…Where do you and your troublesome car live? Is Anyone close by that can go look-see-help. ?
Nick
In the past I had issues with faulty rotor arms that when they become warm start tracking. The car would run fine for a while then miss fire and sometimes completely cut out. Apparently this is caused by the quantity of carbon in the plastic. See this article Top quality Lucas distributor rotor arms, Reconditioned Lucas distributors, rebuilt Lucas distributors, recurved Lucas distributors from Distributor Doctor
Hope this helps
I have made arrangements for hospitalization nxt wk as out patient therapy has failed.Carbs look ok.Dizzy turn restricted by vacuum connection.Was pulling out the rotor to put points in and the whole dizzy followed,hope its back in original position now.Anyhow ambulance arraingements are in place.
Good luck with your health, I hope you make a good recovery. Car problems pretty insignificant in these circumstances.
wish you well with health…and some good Drs and successful treatment. Let us know when you are gonna get back at that car…maybe some help can be sent your way.
Nick
Meant hospit for the car.om going to the car psychiatrist.As a finLe i put all back together.Mico all way clock wise, ranked,teist dizzy clockwise rpms up smoothed out but still missing.,Will put to rest until it arrives in the hosp
Sorry you thought it was me but thanks all.
Cecil:
My reaction to your earlier post was, well, at least you are retaining a sense of humour about this frustrating experience! It still sounds as if the main issue seems to be timing given that when you turn the distributor it not only starts but smooths out when running. The miss still requires diagnosis, however. Hope you can get things sorted.
Chris.
Glad you cleared that up and you are ok. Maybe just need some mental health treatment. Let us know the outcome, please.
WTF? I see English words, but it ends up hieroglyphics.
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sorry i seemed to have presented the cars issues as mine.It’s going to the car hospital.thanks for you4nthoughtd.
sorry but the car is going to the hospital.Sorry i seemed to have presented it as my health is.I do appreciate your comments though.
One last semi thought.What if the distributor cam as asymmetrically worn? It is old and doesn’t look so good.Is it possible to change just the cam?
Yes, I had a worn cam once; it had variable point gap, although the dwell was constant. It can be changed. Be sure to put the new one in the same way, not 180 degrees off.
Thanks.Before I retire this issue today there appear to be many aye to do the TDC and abaTDC.My last was 2 teeth before TDC with6 right under the dizzy six and counterclockwise firing order.With the vernier fully clockwise it starts gasps etc but runs.If I turn the dist clockwise rpm improve but miss become more confirmed.Dist,plugs,wires,dist cap,condenser rotor,points files (may put some in).was messing before i started the project.How to put a cam in dizzy and would i need points or increase btdc
To change the cam it would be best to remove the distributor from the engine and do it on your workbench. As I recall you were having trouble with this clamp.
I have a very thin wall 7/16" box wrench I use on this.
You could also remove the other screw and remove the clamp along with the distributor if that is easier.
Then measure the point gap with each lobe. If they are all about the same you don’t need to change the cam.
To remove the cam, with it on the bench, remove the rotor and the top half of the body (3 screws around the base).
Then one screw inside the cam and it will come away from the spring weights and the main shaft.
Remember it has to go back with the same orientation of the rotor notch relative to the offset dog on bottom end of the main shaft, so mark it.
To add to Robs excellent post, for goodness sake wind the micro adjuster to mid point so that you can get proper adjustment both +and -
I feel sure that this has been advised in prior posts.
Also I notice that you replied to two respondents with the exact same text, you do realise this is an open forum and you could have just thanked both in the same post?