Have you checked the distributor shaft for sideways movement? See if the points gap alters as you wiggle the shaft. If there is appreciable play there, the shaft can rotate in an arc, upsetting the points gap and timing, varying with speed and give generally inconsistent firing. Just a thought.
Or one better, replace the setscrew with a stud and 12 point nut. Very compact. A UNF 1/4“-28 12 point nut takes a 5/16" socket. Much easier. No special socket required.
I see your clamp securing screw is at a 30 degree angle. Mine is in line with the main hole and inboard, hard to reach. An unfortunate direct carry-over from the pushrod engine where it was inline but outboard, easy to get to. They used the same clamp and simply reversed it. Clamp tightening screw also at a better position rather than 90 degrees from the securing screw. I’d call that two good improvements.
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Thanks.I looked at the cam when I started tio change the points.It actually seems to look ok so Im gonna let that ride for now.As for the dizzy clamp I managed to get to it with a socket wrench to loosen,can probably tighten also.Looking at the spark from the old points there seemed to some vatiability in intensity probably because I imagined it.Will see when the new point are set.How msny teeth BTDC? Lots of variability in recommendations.Using 6,cam out left.
Will ck today.
Im doing points as a last effort. ACROSS from the condenser where the two springs and a wire meet I cant tighten the nut.This is held in place by a clamp with two screws which if could loosen I could secure the springs and wires.I dont know and cant find whatsunder them.I think nothing but there is I dont want to.Anybody know?
You mean these two screws that hold the Bakelite insulator block.
Yes, you can loosen them and lift the block up a bit.
Try not to remove them if you can avoid it. The points spring and condenser spring if you have one will try to move that block around and it might be hard to get it back if as I assume you are doing this with the distributor still in the car.
Also be sure you don’t tighten it back down and inadvertently make something touch ground. That block has a wire connected to it under the nut, and that wire goes to the side terminal. They can not be grounded or the coil will never spark.
still in the car.mine is different in the the wire and 2 spring d are held by a screw which looks like the one between the arrows with the nut on the inside holding and i was able to unscrew it to get the new point spring in etc now i can’t tighten it.
Mine has a square head on the inside and the hex nut on the outside. If the square head is on the outside that is backwards. Maybe you have some other version or modification. If so you may have to buy a set of small wrenches like 1/4, 9/32, 5/16, 11/32, 3/8.
It’s a pity you can’t get it out and do this on the bench.
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then one of us is backwards the the hex on the inside.Trying to find a small then wrench or set.Ifnthe is nothing under the 2 screwed rubber or plastic clamp I can handle unscrewing the 2 screws,hex nutting the wire and springs which are in place then screwing down the two screws.If there is something attached to one of the 2 screws I won’t,
just a thought here as i’ve done this before…if cecil has an ipad or tablet, (phone to small a screen) someone could have video chat with him ages ago as it would make it easier for the persons giving & receiving advise/info a lot more precise & quicker…seeing is believing
There is nothing attached to the 2 screws. You can unscrew them about 6 turns and then you can lift up the plastic block. Don’t go too far before they come out.
late to comment, but fault finding should be systematic and I cant help thinking that dizzy must come out, it should be totally easy to remove, not difficult at all
Its essential to take many digipics and vids, its impossible to take to many, only too few
If its very old and hasnt been refreshed, it will be a worthwhile exercise. If it seems worn, as others have said, they can be refurbished by pros
I have a tablet and thought of that.Right now Im just about ready to set the points once I tighten the springs but need a flat open end 4 -6 mm wrench for a difficult nut to reach.If this doesnt help after a re set flywheel,cam,rotor,points,plug, wires coil I will surrender until I can get it back home where it will go to a jag shop.
cecil, have you considered electronic ignition that hides in the system but doesn’t look electronic?..i did on my xj6 s2…set - forget.
I actually have and if this electronic redo doesn’t smooth things out I plan a change.I’m not a stickler for originality and all in all the “thing” is pretty much as Dad found it in a junkyard,1 yr old,discarded with “Dolphie” in big white letters on the doors.Rich kid apparently.That was 67 years ago (I’m pretty darn old) and has been a love hate deal ever since.
cecil,
what make if electronic ignition?.. i used to rebuild distributors for circuit racing cars back in the 70’s…damn am i that old… 
Considering a turbo wheel chair
“Dolphie”??? Okay, now you definitely need to post pictures of said car. C’mon, don’t hold back…
i would…and did…send my entire distributor to British Vaccuum Unit …in the NE…USA…he rebuilt it, a bit better advance curve for todays 91 octane fuel formula–different formula additives = different burn rate, and also added a refreshed vacuum unit. Great work, not too costly, came back and car has run great ever since…cured some odd missing at even throttle. As I have said many times…I use points–I can adjust or replace easily, anywhere…but have not had to, EVER…yet…easy to carry spares, and zillions of cars ran on points for millions and millions of miles for multiple decades. With a rebuild all the internals are fresh, advance springs, etc. I like points. Electronics are great for smart phones tho. There are other good distributor rebuilders.
Nick
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