OK girls and guys need your help again, using the picture below does anyone have a clue how to remove the center pin so that I can get the cylinders bored out and re-sleeved with stainless as I am sure the machine shop cannot work around them.
Its not the bore you need to worry about. Its the pistons that normally get damaged when the dust boot is destroyed or non existent, the exposed surface becomes rusty and when they are pushed back in with pad replacement the rust allows the seal to leak.
SS bore replacement is required when the piston has the cup seal acting on the bore, as in a wheel cylinder for drum brakes/ clutch cylinders.
Hi Gary,
I’ve had the calipers bored and re-sleeved on a couple of e-types by Goldline. Never took the pins out, but just de-greased them before I sent them out. I assume that they have a slender boring bar setup that reaches into the caliper without pin interference. They do a great job- reasonably priced. I remember getting a call that one caliper was too far gone, with a bad bleeder port, but they replaced it with another good, used core of the same vintage. Good people.
Tks, Jim
Same here Gary using Apple Hydraulics.
Why s/steel , I know it don’t rust but mine are all original , just knew rubbers , and dot5 , is it worth the expense really ?
Robin I think you are confusing Dunlop and Girling cylinders. With the Dunlop cylinders the seal is on
the piston, the same as drum /clutch cylinders, it`s the bore that that rusts.
Peter B
I am, I thought I could see the seal but expanding the pictures I can see there isn’t one there.
Just had mine redone by Apple Hydraulics. Pins stayed in…in fact I believe they replaced one because it was slightly bent when sent in but straight when returned. I opted for brass sleeves. Maybe not as good as SS, but will at least eliminate the rust issues with stock sleeves.
I swapped my rear calipers with the ones that came off the front because I am putting Wilwood four pots on front.
Tom