Yes I searched. Most say that the clip and retaining washer are removed after you bolt the plate up with the 5 bolts. However I know mine was still attached because I left it attached to the trans when I sent that out. If you take out the washer and pin, wouldn’t the thing come shooting off the car propelled by the spring once you undid the 5 bolts holding the wing shaped mount to the car?
Bill, I’m not sure I’m getting the entire post, but to your last comment about the “thing” coming shooting out - YES. It will drop as far as the prop shaft, if attached, and the engine will allow. At least 6-8 inches w/o the prop shaft attached. Plus off course the force of the compressed spring.
Bill; I installed the plate under the transmission and spring by raising the transmission with a hydraulic jack.
I would remove the plate the same way, support the transmission with a jack then undo the five bolts and then slowly release the jack. This way nothing comes shooting off the car. Everything is controlled.
I am working on the floor as I do not have a lift.
You can take all of the risk out of this process by backing out a couple of the bolts and replacing them with longer bolts. Keep doing so until the spring tension is dissipated and the mount lowered.
Did mine the same way this last weekend to replace all the rubbers in the rear transmission mount. I had to remove unbolt the exhaust hangers and drop the back of the exhaust so I could clear it when removing/fitting the bracket. But essentially supported the back end of the transmission and then use a trolley jack to support the bracket as I released the bolts to control the spring tension. Had to use it again to compress the spring to get the bracket close enough to get the bolts started. Worked well and only took about 30 minutes to do.
Looking at the photos of my car, I would say that if the washer/pin were installed, it would be banging against the plate every time I went over a bump in the road. Your setup may have more clearance…
Having just reinstalled mine after doing the clutch, I can tell you I actually had to “stand” er…apply downward pressure on the gearbox from above, which allowed my helper to slip the pin in its place with the washer above the pin. Things were pretty tight with new rubber cups on each side of the spring. I also used three longer bolts to get things started. I wish I could recall their length…because the first ones I got were too long. A safe bet would be at least 3-4 inches. Luckily my shop mates had some spare bolts that were of proper length so I did not have to run out to the hardware store…yet again. Right? 'cause that’s always fun!!
+1. I went through this logic at one point, and put in a pin. Made a horrible racket, and bent the pin so that it was almost impossible to remove. No pin in mine…We have heard here in the past that it was used during car assembly, not left in.
Peter removal of that pin is not mentioned in any of the few period PDIs I have so suspect that was not part of it. What I have always thought is the pin was in at the factory so that the engine/trans unit could be fished in and bolted up without another operation to compress the trans spring. While it may be possible to drive with a pin in I would only assume this is very slow street cruzin as with any anger it will (as Jerry said) start a real racket. I would also guess if you ignored it it would not be long until the rear spring mount pulled out!
well I didn’t know it was there and didn’t notice any racket at 100 mph when the car was together. Although I did notice “gear rap” at idle with trans in neutral, increasing idle speed took care of that.
why the heck would the factory leave it in then? Since if you found the washer pin in place when you tore it down as many have, it must have been left in place.