Well, finally found some time and did another article that is hopefully of interest.
http://www.georgiajag.com/Documents/Rackrebuild/RackRebuild.html
Please look it over and let me know if any errors or anything needs to be expanded on.
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Looks like a very nice write up. Do you think the J33 tool is obligatory? It looks like it can be borrowed from the Coventry Foundation.
The manual mentions needing JD35 and centralizing tool 12297 - seems like these are not required based on your write up unless I missed it.
Thanks for taking the time to do this.
Anyone using vice grips on an unprotected spline in Bill’s shop would last long enough to close the door behind them as they left. Some may try the spin that the teeth of the vice grip will fit in the grooves of the spline and do minimal damage. Irrespective, its poor workmanship when there are better options.
Kind of like a special made tool. Not everyone is going to make one of these to build their rack at home one time. I try to write the articles to show what is done and how it can be done with home tools. Some tools are not home tools but not much way around them. When using Vise Grips on the racks, you should not tighten them down to the point of distorting the splines. Have not ever had any problems this way but have only been building them for 40+ years. Look forward to reading your articles on how it should be done.
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The J35 is the sleeve that the seals are expanded over to install. The J33 is the outer sleeve used to compress them back in place. Both are available for loan from the Coventry Foundation. If using the regular style nylon rings, they can be slipped onto place using a hook after heating them up in hot water. Does not take much to compress them back in place. I used to use a small ring compressor. The problem with the old style is they are pretty much set in shape. Nothing to expand them or keep them from relaxing. Cold weather comes and you don’t have assist for the first few minutes until it warms up. Jaguar built them for years that way though and they work pretty well most of the time.
The use of vice grips can only become an issue if the jaws of the grips are a harder steel than that of the splines. Given the legendary quality of Chinese made tools today, most listers will probably rest easy on that one.
By a similar token, my stainless steel fantail finisher falls off of the back of the exhaust once in a while. I just get the big knock-off hammer and whack it back on, much to the consternation of the diehard classic car onlookers. I always point out that I’m not too worried about the hammer getting damaged.
kind regards
Marek
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Dick where do you get the new seals etc? Moss Motors sells a kit but I’m not sure how complete it really is for a full rebuild.
The XJ6/3 and XJS Adwest factory rack kits include the expander seals for the tower pieces. However, they will not work on the E-Type racks for the other seals. We were getting them in bulk out of England. The company got bought out by an American company and is still regrouping. It has been difficult to get them lately. The Moss kit is complete otherwise.
Home repairers and particularly those embarking on a project for the first time, are the most likely to misuse vice grips for the purpose shown in your picture.
We use a discarded lower steering column universal but if a push becomes a shove and there is no alternative to using vice grips to grip a machined part, we protect the surface with aluminium strip; something that is easy to arrange and takes all chance of damage out of the equation. When there are easy alternatives to gripping direct to a machined surface with vice grips (using jaw protectors made from aluminium or brass for example), its a no brainer in my opinion, to use the alternative.
@MarekH
True enough for rubbish tools, but they work harden over time and I’ve seen many machined surfaces damaged by the use of vice grips. Also, the spline of the pinion shaft is not all that hard; circa 38RHC.
Great write up! How do you get the collar off the rack body to remove the end cap? What kind of tool fits into those two slots? Thanks!
Thanks Dick. Assume that is the right size for this job too? Thanks much.
You mean, sand-cast butter metal?
Hi Dick et al., After removing the circlip on the top of the steering rack head and pulling the innards out from the bottom, can’t seem to coax the seal out. The stack of seal cover, seal, bearing, washer all seem to sit on a ledge inside the head. Is that platform cnc’d into the head or will it slide out with the stack? Wondering if I can push it all out from the bottom? Thank you!
The V12’s and later racks use an upper dust shield that is rubber bonded onto a metal washer. The actual seal is under that. After you remove the circlip, just put a screwdriver under the washer and lever it out. It should pop out easy. There is a lower lip with a bearing so you cannot press out from the bottom.