I’m pretty sure it is, and if you have AC there is an aluminum panel above the condenser at the level where the radiator tank attaches to the core that prevents air from going through the condenser and exiting between the condenser and radiator.
I consider the foam piece to be just another part of the overall system designed to keep the engine at the proper operating temperature. As such, I can’t think of any valid reason to leave it off.
S1&S2 probably do have the same under panels, now that I think about it.
I’m not sure whether the lightweights would have had them from the factory. On the track, every ounce of unnecessary weight would go. The lightweights had more bonnet louvers, as you can see:
This one?
…
I have foot in both camps. It’s situational. If hot climate stop and go driving is a regular regular occurrence, AND you tend to run hot, then the foam could be a real help.
I live in a cooler climate, I avoid stop and go, my system runs cool, (so far, well see this summer) and I’m running stainless headers, so I leave out the foam.
To encourage an easier flushing of heat from the engine bay, and to hopefully avoid blistering my new paint!
Mike Frank, I love that picture…
Jaggboy, how do you like the stainless headers and where did they come from…
gtjoey134
The light weights were designed for one thing only, to race and win and who cares if it blew up.
From E1A to those wonderful lightweights, the top vents were much longer creating a push/down force over the roof and down the boot.
For daily use in the RAIN it would probably wipe out the ignition system and tons of steam as well.
So theres reasons for it all.
I actually thought there was a bulletin about removing it back in the day, either way, its 50 years ago.
The alum rad, k+n filter or open filters and all the rest change the whole equation.
If you like it, use it, I still am thinking like a roof ridge?
gtjoey1314
Joey, love the headers, my old manifolds were both cracked, or I might have kept them. I got them through XK/moss. I did fabricate a double wall heat shield starting at the top frame, and going below the bottom frame, and much wider than stock .
I’m carefully monitoring bonnet temps around the louvres. I have a plan to add additional shielding that will span from left side air duct to rear bonnet reinforcing frame. I’m not sure at what temperature paint becomes vulnerable. May have to do a shop experiment with an old panel.
I WOULD HATE TO WRAP THEM, KEEP ME POSTED AS I HAVE MOONEY MAKING A SPECIAL SET!
Sorry caps.
I’m looking for the sound of that Leno light weight car they had.
Thanks.
Hi Peter,
I’m concerned about corrosion in my '69 S2 e-type. What do you recommend to use as antifreeze nd how often to change it?
Many thanks
Jeff
GO-5, changed every five years. But this subject is almost as complicated as what oil do you use…
How long is a piece of string?
If you are worried about existing corrosion try an acid flush and radiator de-scale and use any suitable coolant mix. If you are worried about future corrosion just use any suitable universal coolant.
The only hard advice is not to pour coolant down the drain but dispose of it properly.
Coolant and glycol based brake fluid can be disposed down the drain. Have a look at your local town regulations. Not so sure I would put them down a septic system.
My bro, who recently moved to Marana, does too, now…
Yes, do call. Our regulations do not allow it.
Tom
Not in MY septic!!
No one wants old anti freeze around me. Repair shops, dealerships, auto parts.
I feel guilty putting it in the public sewer.
Public disposal day was canceled due to virus.
AKA the ”solution to pollution is dilution” solution.
Till too many people do it.
Many thanks for your reply. It is the wonderful phrase “suitable universal coolant” that I would appreciate help with. Is this any OAT based coolant, or would a hybrid OAT (HOAT) e.g BMW’s modern coolant be the best or is any generic coolant with corrosion inhibitors ok?
Best regards
Jeff Poston