I built mine from hard lines from advanced auto before all these kits were available. I mounted tees on the rear frame ABOVE THE BEND so that it would be safe from road debris.
I just installed the same bleeders yesterday. Had the same problem tightening one sideâhad to really tighten it----to a scary point to get it to stop seeping. Over all Iâm happyâbut--------the attachment points for the bleed nipple on them is shabby at best----it needs a nut to hold it and not this plastic ânutâ. Did you try to put the original bleeder valves in the new bleeders to see if they would work (without the ball ?)
No plastic on mine. Sounds like yours differs as mine is secured with some sort of stamped sheet metal ânutâ that could be made snug but not tight:
It holds the bleeder but to loosen and tighten the bleed screw I have to use a back-up wrench on the hex portion of the bleeder itself.
I did and they didnât. Old bleed screws seem to take a âsetâ - that is, they distort a bit to conform to the inside of the bleeder. My old ones had such a distortion so that may have made them a poorer fit in a new bleeder.
this pic is like mine but the âserratedâ nut you see on mine is a black plastic, nit metal and it doesn;t hold very well.
Try this. I believe that the 3 way connectors are the used to separate the brake line to the front brakes. It comes with a nice bolt hole. This was a set I built myself.
1 Like
wellâI relookedâthe attachment that I thought was plastic is metal----a very thin metal------andâI am having a very hard time getting both to seat! Still oozing a little fluid after tightening it more than I wanted to. See- Michaelâsâhis I like. Iâ not spend $100 for this POS again.
The lines were from advanced auto and bent with a HF tool.
Rebuilding my 1963 XKE OTS. Have just completed all differential and brake items inside the Cage. Are remote brake bleeders necessary? Were not originally installed. If so, a good source for purchase.
I just finished that job on my 68 ots - I used the ones from XKs Unlimited. I give them mixed reviews, mostly poor.
The good: the system does work, and I hate the bleed job without them.
The bad: the Dunlop end of the lines are rigid, barely fitting between the cage and calipers - had to release the cup to get one side in; I wanted to route to the front of the cage, but the relation to the aperture on the top and the insufficient length did not allow it. So, I routed it to the rear and slightly outboard. It barely fits between the cage and tub; they didnât bother to fix the outboard bleed fitting to the bracket, allowing to to swivel. The effect is to make it a three handed job (wrench in each hand, so catch basin dangling at the end of the bleed tube; The âself bleederâ is bogus, consists of a copper cone between the nipple and seat. In my case, not only didnât work, but jammed eccentrically when the nipple was tightened, causing the nipple to leak. I removed and discarded them; keep in mind that with the nipple pointing down, itâs harder to tell when all of the air is out, but with a forceful pedal and clear tubing, it worked ok. Still a two person bleed job in my experience.
When I do this job again (when I get to the project 63 E), I will make my own out of hard line. Maybe plug one port of a three way for the outboard bleeder fitting. Fed Hill might have something else that works. I do recommend remote bleeders - itâs just that the ones I got werenât very good.
Have I just been lucky ? I think I hate working on inboard rear brakes as much or more than anyone but I have had good success using the cheapo one man brake bleeder bottle kit for years now. For the E I made a very short piece of stiffer windshield washer hose that I can press down over the rear bleed nipples with the wheel removed but shock still in place. I have to do this with my fore-finger and middle finger since there is not enough room to get my thumb in there. The other end of the windshield washer hose has a long length of the flimsy clear bleed hose squeezed into it that then goes to the bleed bottle. This way with short box end wrench I only have to open and close the bleed screw one time per wheel.
David
68 E-type FHC
I have a âGirling Vizi Bleedâ which does work. I let it drain into an oil pan. I bent a wrench and put a long handle on it so I can loosen and tighten the bleeder.
I donât know if the Vizi Bleed are still available.
Anyway, I intend to get the Rob Beere kind of remote bleeder when I get to it.
Hi Mark did this setup eventually bleed and work well for you? Iâm wanting to do this as well because of the angle of the bleed pipes.
Thanks Richard
Richard; Canadian Tire - $14. Best bleeder ever.
Richard, this is Patti, Markâs wife. Sadly, Mark passed away this past March. He had told me to contact members of this forum so that I might get some advice on how to handle his Jag, but I just havenât been able to do it. We are all lost without him.
1 Like
Hi Patti, sorry to hear of Marks passing.
When you are ready Iâm sure the team here will be able to help.
Thank you, Iâm sorry for your loss.
My deepest condolences for your loss: you can be sure the members here will do all they can to assist.
I am so sorry for your loss Patti. When the time comes I am sure you will get any advice you need from members on the forum.
Our deepest heartfelt condolences.