Unfortunately, Series 1’s don’t have an access hole above the IRS. ( Wish they did!) I suppose we Series 1 owners could cut an access hole, but personally, I’d rather drop the IRS. Ergo, Rob Beere’s kit is a better option for me.
HOW, did you get in contact with them? They don’t answer the emails to the address on their site.
Hi Mark,the early series ones do have access holes above IRS,mine which has the holes was built in October of 1962.
Regards Gerry 62 Ots.
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They do, but nowhere near the area of the calipers.
I sent an email to their published email, Robbeereracing@gmail.com. and got a very quick response from Rob himself. Over the course of a few days, we’ve sent about a half dozen emails back and forth with him patiently answering questions regarding applicability, shipping costs and options and payment options.
what was shipping and what method for pay?
Glad I didn’t buy the XKS kit only to sit on the shelf. With all this effort, I am ok removing a dampener on each side every 2 years to bleed the brakes. It’s just not that hard to do.
Shipping to my US address is quoted at 20 pounds. I would advise communicating directly with Beere racing regarding an exact quote and payment options. He seems to be very flexible on shipping and payment method.
They can also be purchased through classic jaguar if you don’t want to deal with international shipping. They rep all of Beere’s stuff here. That’s where I got mine.
That’s a very good point. It appears the Fosseway kit would have the same benefit, no?
Quite possibly yes. I’ve never installed one so can only speak from persons experience.
Erica_Moss
June 20
They can also be purchased through classic jaguar if you don’t want to deal with international shipping. They rep all of Beere’s stuff here. That’s where I got mine.Erica, here are my remote bleeders that I made up some 20 years ago that cost me a grand total of $10 maybe $12 with parts from the local auto supply. I placed them where I could bleed the rears without getting under the car.
Bob
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Nice job Bob. Yeah it’s not a complicated piece of plumbing if one has the time to source the right fittings and fab it. Alas I’m nowhere near retirement.
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Nice job.
Are the red fittings atop the caliper an adaptor for different threads?
Hi John,
I can’t recall for sure but can’t think of any other reason.
I build a speed bleeder kit that is similar to the the XKs, but the end bolting into the caliper is bolted up flush, shorter screw stem making for solid attachment. The new Russell Speed bleeders at the other end do not require the tiny copper washer inside the body of the fitting to which the speed bleeder attaches. Also the steel mesh tubing cannot be twisted as a new fitting allows the tubing to self align as the kit is installed…twisted /kinked lines lead to line failures. Caution, make sure the mounting clips are above the bottom of the tie plate as ground objects can break away the bleeders resulting in catastrophic failure of rear brakes due to loss of brake fluid. Price is very reasonable, all DOT certifiied lines and fittings as well as compression fittings. Best, JW
That’s how I do it too. Paul
Mark,
I, too, have an XKS remote bleeder kit sitting on the shelf ,finding it impossible to install with the IRS in place. Do you suppose a banjo fitting could be attached to the XKS flex tubes in a manner similar to the Rob Beere kit? Maybe a short piece of suitably bent brake line as an extension could do the trick. I’ll call XKS and see if they can be of any help.
Thanks, Joe
Don’t know, Joe. I’m not comfortable with altering a component that is safety-critical like the brakes even though failure of the rear brakes wouldn’t be catastrophic. The piece of mind from installing a well-engineered product like Rob Beere’s is worth the extra cost to me.
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That was my conclusion too. In my case I waited until I had the IRS out to install them but having done that I now wonder if it might have been possible with the unit in situ.
Here is how it went with the unit out, what I do not know is if there is room to do the same with it in.
The remote line connects to the caliper and immediately begins an arc to the rear…
Even on the bench there was no hope of connecting it in that arced position, so instead I fed the line straight to the caliper through the opening in the top of the cage. I do not know if there is enough clearance above the cage to do that in the car.
I got the threads started by twiddling the line itself, then to tighten I used a modified box wrench (my flare wrench was too fat):
That was slow going, like 1/12 of a turn at a time.
Once the line was attached then I fed it thru the inside of the cage and over to the rear.
Again, I do not know if there is room to do that with the cage installed.
That takes it to the rear where the attachment (existing holes) is made.
I did use some wire wrap over the line and a steel zip tie to be very sure it would not contact the caliper:
Again - I cannot say if that approach can be done with the unit in, certainly that is the hard way to go about it.