Are there instructions available how to remove a halfshaft on a 1938 SS100? I need to replace a leaking oilseal.
Thanks,
Ron
After removing the brake drum just remove these screws and pull.
Getting the hub off the half shaft can be more problematic. You should probably remove the hub before removing the whole half shaft assembly. You need to slacken the hub nut then apply a substantial puller. I say slacken rather than remove because the hub may come off with some force.
Peter
Thanks Peter, drawing really helps.
Do I see it correct that on both sides of the bearing there ia an oilseal?
Yes, both sides.
Peter
Ronald
As Peter suggests, it is better to remove the hub after removing the brake drum and backing plate.
Be aware that these hubs are usually VERY tight.
Measure the distance from the nut to the hub end, this lets you know it is fully home when replacing everything.
Firstly undo the hub nut a couple of turns, leaving the nut on the thread, this prevents the hub and puller flying off when it comes loose.
Don’t use a 2 or 3 leg puller on the hub, use a “plate” puller to avoid distorting the hub, also if you have it, use oxy/acetylene torch to warm the hub.
Regards
David
There is a special hub puller for wire wheels, sold by Motor Wheel Service among others.
This is the other kind, for disc wheel hubs.
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Can some tell me with what torque the castelnut should be tightend?
Ihave now succesfully replaced both seals.
Thanks,
Ronald
There is no torque spec. There is a spec for end play.
A torque spec wouldn’t apply because with a slotted castle nut you have to back off until you can get the split cotter pin installed.