Does anyone have any suggestions or solutions regarding some of the interior areas (inside the rocker panel, between fender/wing and interior wall etc…) that may have rust? Is there a way to access these areas with sand/media blasting? Is dipping the only way?
Thanks much.
Owen
Hi Owen, and welcome to Jag-Lovers.
I guess you could rig up some sort of sprayer for evaporust.
I had mine dipped, phosphated, then epoxy wash primed. To be OCD about it, you would do the bodywork, then have the car dipped, phosphated, and wash primed.
Owen,
What country are you in?
Here in the USA a company called Eastwood has just about every rust converting component known to mankind: https://www.eastwood.com/paints/rust-solutions.html
You’ll spend a week checking out their enormous website. Log in and get their first order 20% discount to be a savvy shopper!
Gerard
Loveland, Colorado
USA
Thanks for the quick initial replies. Will need a way to get at the interior panels/layers - that seems to be the challenge.
Nice to meet you and thanks for the suggestion. Need to figure out a way to get at some of these areas that are hidden.
I used a similar thing, on Tweety, back in '03: it was called, “Quiet Solution.”
Can this product be used on politicians?
Gerard
I would shy away from trying to sandblast any internal crevices, you will likely never remove all of the medium, then you are setting yourself up to grind the seams away. You have other suggestions regarding treating the rust so I will refrain from adding any further.
it depends very much on the extent of corrosion
Inspecting with a bore camera is one way to get in thru various access holes that exist
You have to do a very meticulous inspection of suspect areas
The condition of visible areas is a fair guide on what to expect
except if you live somewhere they salt the roads, all bets are off,
I cant believe some the rusty sh!tboxes on the road in another forum…USA salt roads
If the “interior” metal is holed from rust, sections must be cut out, spot welds drilled, new sections formed and let in
Unless it is major / risk of structural failure or you are going to have access anyway in external repairs I would suggest you use something like Evaporust / Deox -C (Bilt Hamber product) as others suggested. Sprayed in left and for a while and rinsed out to remove any surface /loose rust. Even just the cleaning out of accumulated dirt and loose pieces will help. Then use a rust proofer cavity wax - suggest Bilt Hamber Dynax. Cure bad issues no - but at least slows down.
DON’T use a rust converter that forms a barrier ( black passivized rust). These will form a barrier between the steel and the Bilt Hamber / cavity wax of your choice. Stops it being as effective.
Cheers.
Given I am going to have the car either blasted or dipped (anyone know someone good in the Northeast?) I assume you mean if I didn’t dip, I would use Evaporust?
Without getting in the seemingly unanswerable debate about dip vs. blast, anyone have a POV given this thread?
Owen
If you are willing to have it dipped then that is the way to go, it will eat all the bondo out and if you are lucky you should have some sort of body to work with 
The baking way will get rid of all undercoat, sound deadening–and all the lead-- but… that doesn’t get rid of all rust, like dipping does.
It also can be effectively cleaned up and neutralized, with careful work.
NO car I ever did it to, ever “leaked” it out of crannies and nooks.