Hi everyone!
I had been getting a FF23 code (on and off with CEL) that means too rich fuel mixture. A few months ago while the engine was idling between 400-1000 rpm (in P), I disconnected the MAF plug but the engine kept idling which indicated a faulty MAF.
So I took it apart to check if there were any cracked solder joints.
1 Like
I’ve never had this issue (yet), but that’s a great write up on the subject. Nice work!
Thank you Brett!
The solder joints of the plug were suspicious, I saw a fine crack on two of them but I resoldered all 4 and the connecting pins for the wire/resistor.
Got to ask Joe, does it work now.
1 Like
Jimbov8,
after I finished the job and reconnected the battery, there was no CEL and no FF code. But of course, I’ll find out how it works when I drive my car. But I’m 100% positive that the MAF was faulty. I’ll get back later with the final results.
Sounds like you’re on a winner, great work also.
Thanks Jimbov8. I went to a 1.5 hr test drive and everything worked fine. Smooth idling no CEL or code. I start to think I did an awesome, super-duper great job. 
If the problem comes back, I’ll be back too and admit I made a fool of myself in this response. 
2 Likes
GOOD JOB JOE !
Way-y cooler than buying a new or used replacement.
I just did the same thing on my ABS over voltage relay. Reflowed cracked solder joints and no more Anti-lock failure light.
I’ve got a spare, might try opening it up and having a fiddle around too - thanks Joe!
Dennis, Larry, thanks for the response.
That relay is kinda pricey, no wonder we diy guys try to save as many parts as we can.
Larry, the desoldering of the plug went easy but I couldn’t separate the hot wire/resistor leads from those solid wires so I had to cut them just under the attaching point.
Hi Joe, I’ve been following your post with interest because I have been getting FF23 and CEL intermittenly now for a couple of months. Great pictures to follow should I need to, so a big thanks for that effort, but I’m thinking / hoping the problem is not my MAF but something else. You mentioned your car was ’ idling between 400-1000 rpm ’ my car idles nice and smooth, both hot and cold, 800-850 regardless of the CEL light, and seems to be driving fine.
Just before the CEL light comes on, which up to now has always been while the engine was idling, I know it is about to illuminate because there is a very slight change in the engine note, almost like a flutter, but the idle is unaffected Can I ask you what other items you checked and eliminated before you found the cracked solder joints, just so I can do the same ! So far I’ve replaced the Lambda sensor and the Coolant temp sensor and cleaned all relevant connections. It went away for a week and I thought I’d cured it but the CEL came on again today at the traffic lights near my home after a 30 mile trip.
cheers.
Hi Casso!
Thanks for the positive feedback. There are a quite few things that can trigger the CEL and the code. I replaced the oxygen sensor maybe a year ago so I knew it couldn’t cause the problem. I also ruled out the CTS and checked the hot wire that was clean. In my case the idling wasn’t always fluctuating before the CEL came on. Sometimes I felt just a little flutter as you said for example at a red light. So next time you get it unplug the MAF and see if the engine dies or keeps idling.
A very interesting thread.
Thanks David!
It’s been a week since I worked on the MAF and so far so good. No CEL and no FF23 code. The engine doesn’t fluctuate anymore. Car starts up right away.