Well, I’m at the end of my rope… or brake. The front right brake is locking up, just like it did the time before. Purchased new calipers for right and left, new stainless brake lines and new pads. then had a terrible time bleeding the brakes, so bought a new MC. Brakes bled ok, drove about 4 miles and the front right (same as before) locked up, barely able to make it home. So, what to do??? I’m ready to buy new lines, go back to new rubber flex lines, Just makes no sense to me. Any ideas of what to try next.? I know new parts aren’t what they used to be so should I try another part???
If it is only one wheel, it pretty much HAS to be either the caliper or the flex hose. My money’s on the hose (since I just went through this with a clutch hose…).
Regards,
Ray L.
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I almost 100% agree with Ray. But, to be paranoid, I would first check that the front left brake caliper does actually work properly. If the left caliper is seized, or in some sense lazy, then it could mislead you to conclude it must be the right caliper or hose, only.
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Wayne,
Please forgive me if this seems pedantic, but it’s easy for us readers to fall into the trap of taking everything we read at face value and thereby make assumptions that turn out to be false. So, a few questions:
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Does your '64 have the stock brake system for that year? i.e. 2 master cylinders, Kelsey-Hayes servo, Dunlop calipers etc?
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When the brakes locked up, how did you diagnose that it was only the front right that was locked?
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What did you do to allow you to “barely make it home”?
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Are you sure that the linkage is set up to ensure sufficient free travel of the Master Cylinder push rods (as per page L.13 of the Workshop Manual)?
-David
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I think that is a good idea, but I’m pretty sure just the left was seizing. But my wife tells me I have been wrong before… so I will check before I tear things apart. Thanks.
- Yes, to all of #1, however calipers have been changed out from originals to a new set of Dunlops purchased from Moss just a few months ago.
- Car pulled to the right , could feel the right wheel seizing. (same one as before).
- It was tightening up as I drove away from the house after a 4 mile ride. I got about 3 blocks away and could tell FOR SURE something was getting tight. I stopped to let my son out of the car outside the garage and then could barely get the car into the garage.
- Not at all sure about the linkage set up, we hadn’t checked that at all. Will be the first that we check next. Thanks…
Thanks Wayne. When the car has been left for an hour or so after the brake binding, does it free up, or do you have to take some other action to free it? Next time it happens it would be worthwhile measuring the temperature of the front two hubs, even if it’s only by touching them with your hand. If one side remains cool to the touch while the other is very hot it really points to the flex pipe or caliper on that side. The brakes pulling to one side certainly suggests a one sided problem, but it would be good to confirm it with a temperature measurement.
Good suggestion. Not sure when I will do that… for a retired guy I seem to keep pretty busy! Lots of motorcycle riding, honey do’s, odd jobs, etc. But I sure will check it.
Thanks.
It has happened to me twice. Last summer and this one, but on left front wheel. Smoke from the brake but been able to drive home, about 10 mins. Left to cool with open bonnet. After a few hours back to normal, and has not happened again. I have modern Wilwood? calipers.
An old mechanic suggested I keep a wrench in the car, to let the pressure out, if it happens again…
Well, I did go out to the garage and to my surprise the brakes have released the front right wheel. So a plus for that…
Wayne,
That is typical of most of these brake binding issues. The binding occurs when things warm up, and releases as it cools. If you don’t have enough pedal free play (as per my point #4 above), brake fluid can’t return to the reservoir when it expands, and applies the brakes instead. It will affect both sides though, so hence my question about how you are determining if both sides are impacted.
I just took a look at the new master cylinders and they do not have any threads on the rod to make any adjustment. Could I’ve been sent the wrong master cylinders? The front I just got a few months ago and the rear was just last year.
If you have a Series I the upper master should be the rear and the clevis has female threads and the upper master has male threads on the rod. The lower master has the clevis “built in”. If you follow the adjustment procedure and the masters have the correct internals adjusting the upper will cause both to be in adjustment. I’m quite sure the internals are slightly different front and rear - make sure they are in the right position. If I recall the difference is quite subtle
IT may be that the difference is how they are shipped with the clevis, but some internal difference is possible.
Now I used new masters which had different port arrangements. Note I have a shim behind the master which I made in order to get the adjustment correct. I may point out my brakes work absolutely perfect. If you have absolutely original masters likely you’ll need no shim. I spent a ton of time getting the brakes correct, but it was well worth it.
I no longer have the red feed hose, as this wasn’t the correct rubber for brake fluid,
I hope you can read the part number in my photo: C17482
That is the threaded clevis. You’ll need the rod - it can be replaced, there is a clip under the rubber boot.
There are about one or two million parts in the whole assembly if you take the pedal box apart. Not the easiest repair and you better take pictures and notes if you take the thing apart. No need to mess with the pedal box to just mess with the masters.
Don’t know if the rod is available as it seems not to be identified in my parts blow up.
Thanks a bunch, I’m pretty sure we have a good idea on what to do, but not sure we can do it. It probably is the push-rod issue. I don’t have the threaded one, but might find it in the pile of old parts in the garage… we’ll see.
Again, thank you to everyone. I’ll let you know how it comes outl
I was getting the right front locking 20 years ago. Changed to braided? Steel hoses. No issues since. Everything else had been replaced and Wilwood.
Calipers.
Stew