To remove the inner race you can just run a bead of weld around the bearing surface, when the weld cools it shrinks and the bearings should be free to remove. Assuming you have access to a welder of course.
It was quite a job to remove just the bearings. The rear bearing was very bad.
It looks like the inner race and the hub housing are the same. However, they are separate parts and different materials, even if you can not see this by looking at their joint, because you do not see any gap. I used a Dremel cutting disc but that did not help. Next, I will use a torch to heat the race, and once it cools down I will hit it with a punch.
The front race is in better condition than the rear race. The grooves in the rear race are from the cutting disc.
Here I remove the adjustable spacer of the front bearing:
Here is the pivot pin sleeve before I cleaned it up and cut off the remaining bearing part. I had to cut off the bearing part before I could break away the rear adjustable spacer from the pivot pin sleeve.
Some markings:
I heated and cooled the race and hit it with a punch but that did not give any result. I have to weld a big nut or similar metal object firmly to the race and then hit the metal from the other side. Maybe that will force the race to stick out from the hub bearing housing.
That’s what I ended up doing when everything else I had tried failed. I ground the ends of some bolts to match the angle of the bearing face top and bottom and welded them in place with my stick welder, they came out quite easily using a drift from the opposite side.
Casso,
I noticed that a 36 mm diameter washer fits well into the race. Tomorrow, I will weld it in place. Then, I will push a 25 mm diameter steel rod against the washer from the other side of the hub, and finally hit the rod with a hammer. Let us see how it goes in the end. 
Good luck I hope it goes well for you. I don’t know if it was necessary but I removed the battery and alternator leads before using the stick welder, I was worried about frying any sensitive electronics.
Welding did not work since the race is some alloy. So, a special tool was needed. This tool is made from a 5 mm x 20 mm x 200 mm (or so) steel flat bar. The tip is sharpened and bent. After some serious hammering the races came out. I had cut off the races with a small cutting disc before hammering.
The next thing is to clean up the hub housings with a 320 grit sandpaper and then install the new bearings.
Very strange the races are certainly not a problem welding that I have ever had a problem with.
Robin,
Even if we tried my friend’s new welder twice using two different settings, the welding seam adhered very well to the steel washer but not to the race.
Watch out for the door seals sold on eBay. I bought a set, and they were incredibly difficult to install. I ended up in a body shop for the help in getting the rear ones properly in place. Now the doors take a hard slam to close!!! That’s not our car 
These after-market seals are just too hard, byer beware.
Interesting! I only did the fronts and they went in like a breeze with some soapy water and a pusher (blunt screwdriver) - late car though, maybe that made a difference?
I installed the new bearings.
The next thing is to find out why I do not get hot air to the cabin. Maybe the problem is the heater valve (CBC2536). 
Luckily, the AC works still, and the blowers work on all speeds as I repaired them in 2020. The AC was charged in May. But I don’t need AC till April/May. 
Instead, it would be nice to get hot air to the cabin during the winter. 
Of course, I will not drive the car if it snows or if the roads are wet, but when the roads are dry it is nice to drive the car every now and then even in the winter period (November-March).
The both hoses that connect to the heater control valve are hot. That should indicate that the valve is working. However, I still do not get hot air in the cabin. The AC works nicely.
When my car failed to deliver hot air to the cabin the cause was a broken demist flap that had fallen into the heater and jammed the upper blend door in the “cold” position. This prevented the air being diverted through the heater matrix so only delivered cold air through the side and screen vents.
A small amount of heat did appear at the passenger side footwell, but none at drivers side due to a failing blower also being an issue at the time.
Larry, thanks, this is interesting. How did you solve the problem?
Well I only partially solved it as the demist flap is still broken; but I do have both heat and A/C now. I replaced the bad blower then removed the centre vent trim and the centre vent itself. Wedging the vacuum operated door open I could see a portion of the broken flap and managed to get hold of it with a long needle-nosed pliers.
I was able to remove the flap (it’s about 14" or so long) taking it out through the centre vent. I also changed the blend door motor with a spare, but this may not have been necessary as I did that before finding the problem with the broken flap.
Ideally the flap should be repaired and replaced but as that requires removing the dash to get access, I didn’t do that yet. Disadvantage of having no flap is the misting of the windscreen when running with A/C as I found out last summer. I have a carpet dash cover so the temporary (maybe!) hack is to slip something under the cover so that the vents can’t blow on the screen in hot weather. Not perfect but at least I have heat this winter.
Larry, thanks for your further explanation of the situation. When the AC is on and I want to get cold air to the cabin, the adjustment knobs of my flaps need to be in the extreme position. Even if I adjust them to get warm air, I don’t get warm air.
It was again time to warm up the car and switch the AC on in order to keep it in working order during the winter break. After that I switched to the ”Economy” mode and adjusted the knobs to hot, and yes I do get warm (if not hot) air to the cabin. 
Does anyone have an idea what the black connector in the left corner of the picture is? My car has this connector but there is no counterpart. I have always wondered this. 
The wiring of the connector is in the same wiring harness as the coolant temperature sensor (CTS). If I unplug the CTS wiring the VCM indicates “Check engine” as it should, of course.
I found a similar connector plug on my car that was not connected to anything, it was taped up and hidden underneath the air ducting. After a bit of investigation I found out it was for an ‘inlet air temperature’ sensor that would normally be fitted into the air duct pipe but not all models have one installed from new. Jaguar used the same engine wiring harness so you end up with a redundant connector. If everything is working fine and you have no error codes I’m guessing it will be the same connector I found.
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