You might pull the starter and have someone go over it, since you have no idea what condition it’s in. Or instead just get one of the newer HT starters and call it done. Be sure to clean all the connections while you’re there too.
Definitely replace all the hoses, both cooling and brake vacuum lines. Be sure to use brake VACUUM hose. Many are sold fuel hose, thinking that it’s chemically resistant, but you need it to resist vacuum not brake fluid. You can get it at any local car parts store. A kit of all the cooling hoses from XKs is $60 +/-
The tube that was hanging from the manifold is frequently clogged, so flush it and check to see if it is badly rusted.
I’d look at the engine mount on the intake side too, while you have the access.
Interesting that you have the rear crossover manifold that’s consistent with what was installed in '68 cars sold in the US but the cam covers that were installed in later cars with the middle crossover manifold. It’s interesting because there are no rear cutouts and the crossover still clears.
I saw that as well and was going to inquire, but let it go. I wonder why Jag put the cutouts there if they aren’t necessary? Perhaps part-to-part tolerance stack-up would require the cutout in some instances.
Mine has the same cam covers and where the crossover would attach is in the rear also. But mine does not have the crossover pipe attached, only a blanking cover. Mine was originally shipped from Germany in 1971 according to the previous owner.
The smog setup changed three times over the '69-'70 models. The earliest '69s carried forward the rear crossover manifold arrangement of the US Federalized '68s then transitioned to the arrangement you have with the cap but also with no notches in the cam covers. The next transition was the crossover in the middle with corresponding cam cover cutouts.
I did this myself a year ago… twice!, I managed to get a coolant leak the first time. A ratchet and wobble extension will get half of them. I found an open end wrench, and flipping it every turn was easier than a box end. Good luck !!
I cut one in half, drilled a hole in the end and put a string in it so that I didn’t loose it every time I dropped it. I have found it to be invaluable tool over the course of years.
Cheers,
LLynn
Is the water pump something that can be changed easily with the triple SU in place or would it be better to just go ahead and do it while the inlet is removed, water drained etc.
I have not had any issues with the water pump but I believe its original so would probably be a good idea to replace. Just trying to determine if I can leave this job until I have everything back on and working or whether its easier to do it with intakes removed.
Crap, I did that last year to replace the engine mounts and stabilizer rubbers, guess I should have done it then
Thanks for the info. I will hold off until the SU conversion is done then.
Since you have the system drained you’ve taken the first steps toward replacing the pump. You might check with Coventry West regarding installing a pump with an upgraded impeller. IIRC, the cost is very reasonable for the peace of mind alone.
I don’t recall having to move the engine to get the waterpump off in my 69, I think all I had to do was remove the pulley, then I was able to work it out of there.
Inital test fit of the new inlet with triple SU last night. Seem to have some interference with one of the two brackets the return springs connect to and the frame rail below the carbs. Seems like maybe one of the brackets got a little bent in transit. I am assuming they should both be at the same angle below the carbs and to the outside of the frame rail when fitted ?
I temporarily removed the spring return brackets to test fit and I am very happy with how it looks.
When it comes to bolting these onto the car properly, it looks like the carbs have to be removed from the inlet to gain access to the bolts again. Is that correct ?
Not sure what you mean by outside the frame rail, but mine start above the frame rail, then stick down between the frame rail and the engine. As to your second question not sure which bolts you are asking about.
As you know I’m just finishing mine up, I had the same question, and the brackets go between the block and the frame rail. The brackets don’t have to be at the same angle. Remember the rear carb uses the little triangle bracket, at a completely different angle.
I put my carbs on after installing the intake manifold.
So I have just placed my order of new intake manifold and cooling hose kit for the conversion. Will have to wait a few days for it to arrive. With the intake manifold removed I can see the top of the intake valves through the ports. They looks to be pretty black and carbon buildup in some cases. Is now a good time to clean these port up or is this a something that should not be done in case some particles get into the cylinder bore.
Also, I am assuming I can get the car running with the original (non-vacuum advance) distributor by just capping the SU where it would attach to the distributor.
