Daytona Beach area. You?
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Interesting tread.
I thought you might be interested in my fresh air and recirculating heater/evaporator unit that I am building. Unfortunately I have had to put it on the back burner at the moment, due to other commitments, but tests have gone well.
It draws cabin air through the redundant clutch/brake pedal hole with the aid of an in-line blower. The recirculating/fresh air is controlled by the opening top vent, which when open, directs fresh air down through the heater/evaporator core in the normal way, but when closed, the fresh air is directed away down the sides of the fan housing and the interior air is sucked/pushed in with the in-line fan through the core and out through the original interior vents.
I haven’t tested this yet in full AC mode as it is not connected up, but the air it passes in both fresh air and recirculating mode is substantial.
Obviously some of these parts still require re-finishing and I have had to re-design the fan housing to move it closer to the bulk head, to avoid the duct on the bonnet, which may be seen in first two pictures.
Paul
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That’s interesting I will look at it later in detail.
Thanks Richard
Clever setup! I see that when the fresh air mode is engaged it automatically closes off the recirculating mode. Also, how will you operate the lever, with a cable?
Does anyone know the cost of the under bonnet air unit that clayton supplies. To me the advantage of that unit would be a bid decrease in labor to install, not having to cut the firewall, no condensate/water problems inside your car and finally not having to modify center console with bulky unit hanging down inside footwell. Downside is no recirculating air, which would probably not be a problem especially on a OTS.
Yes, the leaver is operated by the existing heater cable.
I have had to re-design the position of this and the way it works because the fan housing had to be moved back and effectively close the gap between it and the heater/evaporator housing. I will upload some more photos if you are interested.
Paul
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Your fabrication of that shutter assembly borders on genius!
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Thanks, Not as good as I would have liked, but it works and will be largely out of sight, by the time I have a mesh over it. 
Paul
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Very interesting design……I’ll be interested to see how it goes when fitted
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About hour west of orlando. 
JLo, so you are near the Tampa area? Do you ever make it to any of the cars and coffee events in Orlando?
Yes, Bushnell specifically. Next to I-75. I have never gone to a cars n coffee.
I am better at admiring other peoples cars rather than showcasing my own.
I did make the effort last year though by driving my E type to an event at the Ritz in Orlando only to discover I got there too late. Still had fun even though the cocktails were $60 out by the pool. Lol
The last couple times I have driven my s1 coupe has been at nightfall an hour to and from dinner. It’s a much more comfortable place to be since adding AC and proper insulation.
I have read many people on the forums say that their AC is sub par and doesn’t perform well but I’m starting to think there was an issue in their installation & insulation.
Any system that places the evaporator in the engine compartment of an E-type will be ineffective in the American Southwest, or in similar climes.
The Moss/RetroAir system is effective, but the fan is indeed noisy on the high speed setting. This is caused by a resonant frequency. I believe it can be eliminated with strategically positioned damping material on the top of the case, but haven’t gotten around to it as yet. The unit is effective in the DFW area on the mid-range speed setting.
This is the only industry offering that mimics the original Jaguar unit. The four inch hole in the underside of the dash (for the fan motor) is completely out of sight and is the same as for the original factory unit. The hole is not a big deal. In any case Retroair (Classic/Moss) was offering the motor on the bottom to preclude the requirement to create a space for the motor. The motor hangs down into the footwell with that placement. Again, neither is a big deal.
The vents can be ordered in black or faux chrome trim. They are roughly double the size of the original “factory” system.
The system operates in recirculation mode at all times…thank goodness.
There are numerous strings regarding the RetroAir/Classic/Moss unit in the archives. The basic design was originally developed for the classic Jaguar sedans (different evaporator). I would want a demonstration of any of the Clayton systems in exreme outside air temperatures before making a purchase.
I have been looking at AC systems. The Moss kit seems to be the best option on the market. I looked at the instructions at the Classic air web site, not to informative. Am i right in assuming the 4" hole is in the hardura panel? Were there any problems with fitting the compressor or dryer? I’m an hour west of Tampa. Steve
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Steve, is an hour west of tampa on an island someplace in the gulf? 
If the motor is on the top of the evaporator the hole/cavity is in sheet metal above the hardura. Nothing structural in my estimation. If the unit is subsequently removed, the hardura covers the modified area.
If the motor is on the bottom of the unit…no hole.
Seminole Fl. The gulf is two miles away, as the seagull flies. Tampa can be 45 minutes or an hour and a half drive.
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I called Moss, and was told i would need a new pulley for the alternator, and a new water pump. AC kit and water pump on back order, no time estimate on when. I called classic auto air and no working numbers. I might not be doing AC.
What is the reason for the water pump, is it the pulley I assume? Or the brackets?
The pulley. I would think you could just change the pulley and not the whole pump.