Hi Jens Tornblad & all – on 737980, '54 Vk VII LHD – (1) run engine and
apply brakes in standing position several times to bleed servo; (2) turn
off, then bleed, doing left front wheel (closest to master cylinder) first
– right front wheel (2nd closest to MC) second – left rear wheel (3rd
closest to MC) third – right rear wheel (farthest from MC) fourth. If
pedal is still soft, you may have a problem in either the servo, brake
lines, or master cylinder. Check lines that carry engine vacuum to servo
with engine running; if OK, did you flush the steel lines as well as the
rubber lines? If not, do it with denatured alcohol (follow bleeding
procedures until all lines are clear), then bleed again with brake fluid.
If pedal STILL soft, you may have to open up master cylinder again to
double check for leaks. I hope this helps – Larry Martz
This should work, but most brakes are bleed from the furthest
point on the line to the closest.
Does the peday stay hard if you keep the pressure on the pedal, or does it go
down slowly.
Alastair Reynolds had this problem on his S-Type, the brakes pumped up, and
stayed rock hard.
The problem turned out to be excessive retraction of the rear pads, needed new
cylinders in the rear brakes (supplied foc by the supplier). We had the rear
subframe out two or three times trying to fix the problem, blanking off various
parts of the braking system trying to ged rid of the problem.
We could measure about a 20 thou gap at each of the rear pads.
Hope this helps,
Alastair Lauener
64 S-Type________________________________________
Hi,
Yesterday I did not succeed in bleeding the brakes of my
S-type. After fixing several leaking connections the
following problem remains: Every first time I press
the brake pedal it goes almost all the way down. The
second time I press the pedal, it becomes hard early
in the travel (which I think is normal). A friend
says that it is typical for air in the system, but maybe
it is worse.
Are there any special tricks in bleeding the S-type
brakes? The service manual is not particularly clear
on this.
Hello all, I have a 66 3.8S Jaguar and both front bleeders are twisted off.
I tried using an “easy out” tool but just managed to break it off inside the
hole of what’s left of the bleeder. I did try heating it some but I wasn’t
able to get it.
Anyone have any suggestions? I don’t really want to remove the calipers
since the breaks work fine. The reason I wanted to bleed them in the first
place was because the car had been sitting for about 5 years.
Pete
1966 3.8S
(Slowly but surely getting better and better.)
I encountered this on a Saab recently. I drilled out the broken nipple
which had M7 thread and replaced it with a M8 thread. This a cheap
non-original but working solution. A more original but also more
expensive solution is to drill the nipple out and use a thread insert of the
correct dimension. These are the easiest ways in my opinion.