I have done the major conversion from internal to external pumps on my
1963 Mark X as you may have noticed many months back. If I had to do it
all over again I would not use the facet pumps by Purolator. Although
they are fine units, I had to install many other components to make the
entire system work. Just the other day I saw a self regulating on call
pump in J.C. Whitney (Automotive mega-magazine superstore) for about $40
a piece. That model had a one way valve installed which would have saved
me $50 USD and an adjustable PSI handle. It also worked only when the
floats called upon it for fuel rather than a constant pressure to the
carbies. I also bought, but did not install a pressure regulator, as the
pressure gauge I installed in front of the carbies reads only 2 - 3 PSI
at Idle. The pump loses some of its power through the filters, the
hoses, and the glass fuel bowl. The pump is made by Walbro and is a
“bellows type” and runs $44.98 USD each part # 73NT1208P. It only runs
22 GPH which I am not sure is enough as someone else mentioned recently.
I will use this other style on my next Mark X
Gerard in Colorado
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I have Facets as well in my '62 Mk X, and based on the continued discussion
on the gas smell thread I started a few days ago, it seems that the pumps
may also be suspect… I would be interested in finding out if anyone has
used the Walbro bellows pump, and has any words of wisdom…–
Allan Kirson
'62 Mark 10 350090BW
Dear Listers,
I have done the major conversion from internal to external pumps on my
1963 Mark X as you may have noticed many months back. If I had to do it
all over again I would not use the facet pumps by Purolator. Although
they are fine units, I had to install many other components to make the
entire system work. Just the other day I saw a self regulating on call
pump in J.C. Whitney (Automotive mega-magazine superstore) for about $40
a piece. That model had a one way valve installed which would have saved
me $50 USD and an adjustable PSI handle. It also worked only when the
floats called upon it for fuel rather than a constant pressure to the
carbies. I also bought, but did not install a pressure regulator, as the
pressure gauge I installed in front of the carbies reads only 2 - 3 PSI
at Idle. The pump loses some of its power through the filters, the
hoses, and the glass fuel bowl. The pump is made by Walbro and is a
“bellows type” and runs $44.98 USD each part # 73NT1208P. It only runs
22 GPH which I am not sure is enough as someone else mentioned recently.
I will use this other style on my next Mark X
Gerard in Colorado
[Commercial use of subscribers e-mail addresses prohibited.]
I have a Jaguar Mark X with the fuel-pumps not operating. I
know it can be a number of things - but does anyone know if
there are replacement pumps about or if these can be repaired?
I was thinking perhaps pumps off a 420 or S-type might fit, or
are there quite different?
Having a look on the internet, I can’t seem to find a place
that has pumps for the Mark X, while having those for other
models, so I presumed that these submersible pumps were later
replaced or something by some owners?
In reply to a message from jagkiwi sent Sun 9 Aug 2015:
The 3.8 had the submersible, 4.2 switched to a pump in the
wheel arch.
The fuel tank internal piping would be different
I believe the 3.8 E-types had submersibles.
would be surprised if they dont have some answers
They can be rebuilt, or I believe substituted by a GM
submersible.
the parts book states it is a type 78403/A-2.FP–
The original message included these comments:
I have a Jaguar Mark X with the fuel-pumps not operating. I
Having a look on the internet, I can’t seem to find a place
that has pumps for the Mark X, while having those for other
models, so I presumed that these submersible pumps were later
In reply to a message from jagkiwi sent Sun 9 Aug 2015:
The submersible pumps are 2-4x more expensive to
replace/rebuild in comparison to the non submersible ones.
On top of that, not many places still do the rebuilds (they
are a lot more difficult to rebuild than the normal SU
pumps, and depending on the condition of yours they may not
be rebuildable). I haven’t seen anyone offering a rebuild
kit for the submersible pumps in a while.
I would put a pair of external electronic pumps in, sourced
from Burlen.co.uk. I would remove the submersible pumps and
either fabricate a pickup tube from scratch, or modify the
original to end up being just a pickup (obviously making
any changes revesible).
Andrew–
The original message included these comments:
know it can be a number of things - but does anyone know if
there are replacement pumps about or if these can be repaired?
I was thinking perhaps pumps off a 420 or S-type might fit, or
are there quite different?
In reply to a message from jagkiwi sent Sun 9 Aug 2015:
I use two separate Facet low pressure pumps on my MX 10. I
am plagued by fuel odors as I did not get a good seal on the
access panel on the sides of each tank. I removed the
internal pumps as they were corroded with rust and expensive
to repair. One idea I have been tossing around is to remove
and thoroughly clean the tanks and have them tapped at the
bottom with a fuel outlet and run the pumps under the trunk
to avoid any vapors in the trunk. I also would lose the
ability to have a fuel level sender, as I would have the
access panel welded up to make the tank perfectly sealed.
One would only have to fill both tanks and only worry about
fuel when one went empty and then switch to the full tank
and refuel soon there after.
Here is an example but you can get them a bit cheaper:
Gerard
Loveland, CO USA–
The original message included these comments:
Having a look on the internet, I can’t seem to find a place
that has pumps for the Mark X, while having those for other
models, so I presumed that these submersible pumps were later
replaced or something by some owners?
In reply to a message from jagkiwi sent Sun 9 Aug 2015:
I have a �63 3.8 Mark X.
Original pumps are rare and expensive.
I installed electronic versions of the 4.2 Mark X/420G SU fuel
pumps in their original location above the rear wheel using their
original mounts.
The submersible pumps remain in the tank. This allows a number of
things. First, you can use the original braided wiring loom to seal
off the hole in the access cover where it passes through. Secondly,
it retains the original pick up screen. It uses the original tank
plumbing. Finally, it maintains the original check valve which
keeps one pump from filling the opposite tank.
I suggest removing the original impeller for better fuel flow.
I just had to make up new fuel lines and divert the power from the
original access box to the new pump.
You will need two mounting holes drilled into the upper wheel
housing. The original rubber insulated mounting studs were
available when I did this in 2008.
In reply to a message from jagkiwi sent Sun 9 Aug 2015:
Many thanks guys! Gives me something to work with!
Yes I can see submersibles are a bit of an issue. I am however yet
to check any fuses and such or other wiring faults (according to
last owner the pumps just stopped working less than a year
ago)…but am considering replacing them anyway.
In reply to a message from jagkiwi sent Wed 12 Aug 2015:
no inline fuse, think there is one in fuse panel
worth checking at changeover switch for power with
multimeter or test light, also bullet connectors near tank
as I recall now, the pump body is the same as 3.8 E-type,
but the piping and connector strap is different–
The original message included these comments:
Can anyone tell me if there are in-line fuses anywhere?
In reply to a message from awg sent Thu 13 Aug 2015:
If memory serves me corrector I had an inline fuse above
each fuel tank and it was easy to check if the fuse was
blown. Be careful with the electrical lines as you are
deathly near explosive fuel !! There will also be fuses as
noted in the dash panel.
Gerard 63 MX 10
Loveland, CO
USA–
The original message included these comments:
no inline fuse, think there is one in fuse panel
worth checking at changeover switch for power with
