My 65 MK10 has been a constant reminder of how some people
don’t take care of there vehicles. My latest is the voltage
regulator. When I had it running from working on the carbs
I noticed that the ammeter was pegged.So I shut off the
engine and pulled one of the wires from the alt and
restarted it and the result was no charging.At some time the
previous owner had a short in the power wire leading to the
regulator. The fix was to install a 2 terminal key switch
and take power from the window lift relay.I remembered that
the late 70’s Chrysler’s used a solid state two terminal
regulator.I picked up a VR733 regulator and matching plug
for $28.00 at my local auto parts store. The regulator is
mounted on the left fender up high.Keyed power is still
taken from the power window lift relay and a 5 amp atc fuse
holder is used to protect the wiring. I used 14 gauge
wiring.I used a two conductor cable wrapped in the plastic
wire loom tubing for extra protection.Once all connection
were verified I started it and it was charging at 14.5 Volts.–
code621
Carlsbad New Mexico, United States
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In reply to a message from code621 sent Mon 3 Aug 2015:
Across the range of antique cars that I work on by far the
riskiest, least well informed, and most poorly
executed ‘‘repairs’’ are to the electrical system.
Last week I went through a TR3A. Aside from not following
the colour coding on the original loom (just pick some wire
that goes near to your load, shorten or lengthen it at the
far end as required - pay no attention to Colour or wire
Gauge), the fuse box was ‘‘upgraded’’ to a modern plug in
type (with multi plug spade adapters about 1mm away from
the sheet metal), a stretch where crimp connectors had been
crimped onto solid core wire. The one single properly
soldered join was on the instrument lighting - this was
just hanging free behind the dash with no insulation over
the soldered joint whatsoever - either he was so proud of
the soldering job that he didn’t want to hide it, or he
realised that it wouldn’t need insulation since he had used
a crimp terminal too large for the wire at the feed to this
circuit, that would be the only explanation for the fact
that the end of that wire wasn’t stripped, but rather just
crimped onto the insulation.
It wouldn’t have taken much longer to replace the whole
loom than to check and repair everything in place.
Andrew–
The original message included these comments:
My 65 MK10 has been a constant reminder of how some people
don’t take care of there vehicles. My latest is the voltage
regulator. When I had it running from working on the carbs
In reply to a message from code621 sent Mon 3 Aug 2015:
One spare we always carried in our MK2 for long trips, in
addition to a spare fuel pump, was a voltage regulator.
This was from 1963 to 1985, the years first my father and
then I owned our 3.8 MK 2.–
Cyril Reif
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and take power from the window lift relay.I remembered that
the late 70’s Chrysler’s used a solid state two terminal
regulator.I picked up a VR733 regulator and matching plug
for $28.00 at my local auto parts store. The regulator is
mounted on the left fender up high.Keyed power is still
taken from the power window lift relay and a 5 amp atc fuse
holder is used to protect the wiring. I used 14 gauge
wiring.I used a two conductor cable wrapped in the plastic
wire loom tubing for extra protection.Once all connection
were verified I started it and it was charging at 14.5 Volts.
code621
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In reply to a message from Mike Eck sent Sat 8 Aug 2015:
My 65 uses an alternator. The VR733 will not work with a
generator. The regulator for the generator has usually two
relays inside. One is a cutout relay.This one closes and
opens the ‘‘A’’ terminal on the generator based on a rising
and falling voltage.Around 12.3 volts. The other is the
voltage/current regulator.It serves two functions.One to
control the voltage to the battery. Around 14.5 volts.The
other is to control the generator current.It functions when
the battery is low and draws maximum current from
generator.Thus maintaing the max current of the
generator.When the current falls below maximum the voltage
coil takes over to maintain the voltage. What I’ve done in
the past on other generator equipped cars that I’ve had is
to find a regulator that was used with a generator of equal
or slightly less out put than mine. This will require some
research to find the substitute.On the the 12 volt system
they will all have close to the same values for cut in/out
and voltage as the oem. Its the current value that you need
to look at.Also look how the field is configured. I believe
that one field wire is grounded internally on yours.The
other is brought as the ‘‘F’’ terminal and requires a positive
control voltage.–
The original message included these comments:
Are you saying that a VR733 will work with a generator in place of the RB310
or equivalent?