Seat belt recommendation please

I have a series 2, 2+2 and it came with the original buckles and they were not eye hook and latch. They were circle and bolts like these. No idea when the change happened but since my belts were dated 1969 I assume they were original and had original mounting hardware.

That’s what was on my 69 2+2. My FHC has the eye bolt and split hooks on the end of the outboard seat belt.

Is a cloth bag with a Ford name a good thing?

Can’t say it’s good or bad – just bloody expensive.

It’s been decades since the Swedes enlightened the world about seat belts. Going back to the 60s. At the time there was a Volvo magazine ad featuring the nude upper torso of a woman with a diagonal bruise across her sternum and between her breasts, the latter tastefully covered by her hands. Better a bruised chest than a crushed one. $700 seems like a lot of coin but a lot better than paraplegia.

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That’s fine until you build something so complicated it doesn’t work.
how many lives are being saved when the real malfunctions and you’re driving along on the highway with a non working belt?

Has that actually happened?

that’s exactly what happened. Piece of shit Volvos.

I’m under the impression the Volvo seat belt recall has to do with a stud coming loose on the front passenger side, nothing to do with the restraint mechanism itself.

the only recalls I could find related to the rear passenger belts.

However, as a Volvo tech online told me, …“bad take up reel, seen it many times…”

if you have a link to a recall for an XC70 front passenger belt let me know

Nick, I agree, and I did get documentation when I purchased a set for another vehicle. I believe if one is going to install belts, as much effort as possible should be done to make them right. We obviously do not have the means to test our installations, not only the location of mounts but even the strength of the mounts. Also attached is a photo of what I did for that other vehicle to get a better angle. Again, not tested, but I hope a good effort meeting the standards I have available.

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Also, Nick, could you describe more how your belt works, that you find difficult to use?

Tom

The shoulder belt mounting point on my FHC is about 1 inch lower than the top of the seat back and about level with my shoulder. .

FWIW, you can get away with an anchor on the floor or below your shoulder as long as the shoulder belt passes through a guide at a point above the shoulder. the below picture explains it better than I’m doing.

drftut

I’m going on recollection, Bill, which may or may not be faulty, so don’t have a link to share. Should show up on a google search, though.

These aren’t inertia reel belts so one has to adjust the length of the shoulder belt using a buckle. The buckle on the original belts is located at chest level which, although it makes lengthening or shortening the belt a fairly straightforward manoeuvre it might dig in and cause injury in the event of a collision. The new belts I bought from Moss feature the adjustment buckle behind the seat, which is a far safer location, but it places it in an inaccessible point under the header when the soft top is down, which in my case is always. The only time I have the cockpit closed in is spring and fall when I put the hardtop on, so the header is still in the way.

Might be something here;

This is the notice I recall seeing:

Thanks.

But, doesn’t apply to my 2011 XC70.

I took the car in to dealer because I couldn’t find any info on safely disconnecting the explosive device and I was afraid I might set off the air bags.
They fixed the belt, and said “And Oh BTW your vacuum pump is leaking.” On the way back the ABS/DTSC light came on. Then it went out. No difference in driving so I went to the store about 2 mi away. leaving the store the light came on again, I get to the next intersection, stop, the light goes green, I get as far as the middle of the intersection and the brakes lock on and the throttle disconnects. I was dead stuck for about 30 seconds when after much tapping of break, gas and shifting the trans to manual and back the brakes released and the throttle was returned to my control. Drove back to dealer and left the car because it was unsafe IMO. Next day they called me to say the RR abs sensor had failed and oh by the way, the rr coil spring was broken. I have never broken a coil, ever.
This is my lil ol lady’s wife car that rarely goes over 60 mph. And this “XC” is off “road rated”, I guess that doesn’t include the coil springs.

The irony is, I bought my wife this car, new, because the old used Volvo wagon was costing me 1k$ ever 1k miles to fix. I thought I just got a lousy used car so, surely a new one would be reliable. Yet three things broke at 54K mi that should be good for the life of the car.

Volvo reputation for reliability is undeserved.

I say again. Don’t buy a new car if you can avoid it.

thanks, I have entered my safety defect report there

Seattle Fabrics has any color seat belt webbing you need for a $1.79 a yard.Any upholstery shop can cut off the old ones and box stitch on the new webbing. Mine were $14. with shipping total.

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I am with you Bill. So far I have been able to avoid it. My newest car was built in 1975. Nice to be able to fix anything that goes wrong myself. All the stuff on the new cars is great until it breaks. Simplicity can certainly aid in reliability. I have always worked for an airline so can use airplanes for long trips so this has been a contributing factor in my approach about cars .

David
68 E-type

… when it breaks…:grimacing:

I’ve read along, for 2decades, about all the heartache new cars cause: frankly, my experience with the following…
-1990 Chevy Sprint
-1993 Ford Festiva (two of’em)
-2003 Hyundai Accent (bought it new, with fewer than 200 miles on the clock, still going strong when I sold it, at ~194,000 miles)
-2008 Honda Civic (running still when we traded it, at ~299,000 miles)
-2009 Hyundai Accent (current vehicle, bought at 12k miles, in '10, now at ~220,000 miles, and * everything* still works fine, incl. the never-serviced AC)
-2016 Hyundai Tucson ( wife’s ride, bought in late '16, with ~19,000 miles, now with -198,000 miles)
…suggests that I’m WAY ahead of the game, having bought the “awful, dreadful, terrible new cars,” and saved WAY more than I would have, having bought old tech, less reliable “simpler” cars.

“YMMV” --Jerry Mouton