The fog (FG8) on the kerb side and the spot (LR8) on the other, for all markets. The factory switch operated both simultaneously.
1 Like
We had this discussion recently and agreed that the pupose of the long range defies the purpose of the fog light. The other way round it would not hurt as much though.
It would make more sense to trigger the long range with the main beams and to trigger the fog light alone with the separate switch depicted in the diagram above as C.30136. But then you’d drive with five lights on high beam and three lights in fog … tststs. Or - even more intimidating - with parking lights only plus one fog? But maybe it’s just not as bad as we may think.
Best
Jochen
75 XJ6L 4.2 auto (UK spec)
The way I understand it when there is an LR and a Fog, the Long Range being on the outside is there to give you long range lighting down the road and the Fog being on the inside and more diffuse with a wider spread makes it easier to see animals, people, other vehicles etc… On the side of the road.
Jag (or any other British manufacturer) never switched them separately of course. The wiring harness is in place in RHD and LHD cars and they are wired together. I wired mine a little differently than Jag specified because I use relay in the circuit to save my rare fog switch wear and tear. My switch gets it’s hot winding connection from the switched side of the side/parking light circuit. That way it’s harder to leave the fogs on accidentally since there is no standard indicator light. Parking lights go off and fogs go off too.
I would guess you could’ve specified both Long Range or both Fog depending on your needs. Mine has two LR’s right now.
~Mike
Hi Rustfree! I have been meaning to warn you that you have a competing no-rust lister now; can’t remember his exact handle. 
What I had on my first S1, and have partially now on the second (incomplete) is two fogs in the horn grille location, two round driving lights instead of the inner high beams, and a console mounted rocker switch that is “fog-off-spot.” The regular lights use the outer 7 inch high-low beams only. Seems to work fine, and less battery drain with normal high beam driving.
Hi Bob! Yeah I noticed that no-rust related moniker on someone else too. I’ve been rustfreemike for probably 20 years at this point so I might have had it longer 
Makes sense to use only the outers for normal lighting if you have converted to the correct 7 inchers. After all in the US 7 inch lights were 2 light systems only at the time. Some day I’d like to put fog lights in the inners if I could find some that fit and wire them as you describe - It gets super foggy up here.
~Mike
**
Not ex factory intended, Robert - and my wiring diagrams show the front fog positions co-wired, as Mike describes. Definitely not split between a fog/curb and a spot controlled by one switch…
While the low mounting is meant to shine under the fog; using a spot light would still be counterproductive in conditions meant for fog - backglare is self defeating…
While personal preferences may differ - it’s not recommended to fight optical laws. The UK factory wiring included a ‘fog’ position on the light switch; powering the front fog wires and the rear fog guards, and disabling high beams. Reflect regulations at the time; fogs to be used only when weather conditions made it necessary. That US differed is a fact - but fog in US is no different from fog elsewhere in the world…
As an aside; the inner beams are indeed ‘spots’ - that together with 7" outer high beams sure gives adequate lighting. That low beam dramatically reduces vision range at night is true, and a low spot, adjusted to avoid blinding oncoming traffic, reduces the difference between high and low beam. But using a low spot in fog…no…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
**
You may mean the guy with the handle “It has no rust” which is a reference (I think) to the 1979 XJ12L he bought from me as his first-ever Jag and his retirement project.
Got it! In other words, his handle refers to your sales pitch, not necessarily the car.
One, neither or both the above. You’d have to ask Tony…
I do recall he needed to change our arranged pickup date and that I was hundreds of miles away on the only weekend he could collect. But as he put it during his viewing, “It has good bones” which is the most important test for a Series XJ…
Yup I think that was him alright… Right @Robert_Wilkinson ? But my monicker refers more to my wish for a RustFree Jag world than the real possibility of ever attaining it… It’s more about the journey than the destination
Now that I see this I know I have the right lights. I was confused as their lenses are not identical. I have the correct brackets as well, but it seems that the lights themselves have the wrong mounting bold and nut at the bottom.
They have a sort of swivel/pivot set up like a wing mirror. I might be able to remove them and swap them for something shorter and solid.
Yes, the Square-8 lights intended for fitment to the S1 had a different mounting arrangement. The ball joint at the bottom is eliminated, replaced by a simple tapped hole. The rectangular mounting plate for the ball joint is IIRC riveted to the housing at its four corners. I believe you could remove those rivets and substitute a similar plate with the tapped hole at its centre, in lieu of the ball assembly. I can provide a photo; RustfreeMike is a much better authority, though.
Thanks Bob! BTW @soscume there are a couple good pics of the correct lights and their mounts at the top of this thread.