First off - there is a LOT of information on an earlier thread that was in the Classified section where a gentleman was looking for a set of Series One bumpers for his '67 OTS. Roger Payne posted extensive notes there that detail when the fixing method on the bumpers changed; the change came in the middle of what I believe is the '66 model year. I won’t repeat that information here, but here is a link to it:
There IS another difference that I have found on two separate types of Series 1 bumpers, one with the captive nuts in the bumper (early) and the other with the slots underneath to allow the bumpers to be removed from the outside (late).
The early bumpers that I have - my car was built prior to the changeover in bumpers - have indentations to clear the turn signals in the front bumpers, as opposed to being flat across the top of the bumper as the later car has.
If anyone has successfully substituted the later style of bumpers for the early style bumpers I’d like to know as it would be useful to convert to the external mounting method. That said - the holes ARE different (which could be addressed during bodywork) but my main concern is that the lack of the ‘bend’ underneath the turn signals will cause problems - either aesthetic or fitment issues with the turn signals…
I will post a photo of the two side by side shortly…
Here is a photo of the difference in the top of the two Series 1 bumpers.
The bumper on the left is the earlier one: note the slight bend underneath the turn signals versus the straight top on the later cars; perhaps the later bumpers were mounted slightly lower and thus did not need the relief for the turn signals?
Not that I have extensive experience but I have never seen a S1 bumper without the indentations. Don’t know but I would tend to agree that “without indentations” was intended for S2.
For what it’s worth, the “later” fixing method, with captive nuts in the body and bolts on the bumper, is substantially easier to remove and install. For instance, with the early approach, you have to remove the fuel tank to get at the nuts.
Harvey - Exactly - the later units ARE far easier to remove should you need to! The big reason I am researching this is that I have some very nice later rear bumpers that dont need chrome and that whole thing about having to remove the fuel tank to get to the bolts for the left rear…
Then I found this later left hand front that has already been chromed and has the slots for external removal. But alas - Im thinking now that using the originals are a better fit for my car and they ARE the originals.
I may simply sell my later bumpers to help offset the cost of plating the originals…
There is probably no reason that you couldn’t substitute a stud at the 1 or 2 locations that require gas tank removal. A bolt with a jam nut on the outside would be very simple. Placement would be critical to get the bumper correctly situated fore/aft.
Regarding the front, on my 63 FHC project, the area at the running light fixture is very tight, even with the indent on the bumper. So many cars get put together with sagging front bumpers and I am sure it is because the tolerances in that area don’t always add up to a good fitment. On my car, I had to enlarge the opening and move the light fixture upward to get a good fit.
The later Series 1 front bumpers, as fitted to Feb 1966 onwards 4.2 E-types, have the same indentations on the top surface to clear the turn signal lamps as per the earlier 3.8 front bumper arrangement.
When Series 2 E-types were introduced in 1968, the turn signal lamps were legally required to be much larger, and were repositioned below the front bumpers, thus now the top surface of the bumper was straight with no need for any indentation…
See pic of a SERIES 2 front bumper, flat across the top…
